The East Face of North Gateway is closed to climbers every year from around Feb 1 until early August, depending on when the birds fledge. It's not posted out there, but since the closure has been in effect for 20+ years it is incumbent on climbers to know about closures by stopping in at the visitor center and asking. The falcons always nest in a big pothole above the traverse ledge and below the Kissing Camels arch.
Description
Climb up touris Gully (5.4) to the second large eyebolt. Belay from there and move up and right past 4 drilled pins to the obvious chain anchors. The anchors are about 45 feet above the eyebolt and have a huge quicklink to rap off of.
As an option you can continue up past two bolts on Tedricks route. After the second bolt traverse right (5.6) to the anchors on Place in the Sun to finish off Tedricks. Rap back to the eyebolt from there or use two ropes to get to the ground.
An interesting route. On the day we climbed it, the route seemed pretty sandy. Maybe a difficult 5.8? I could have been tired from the other climbing during the day. But the moves getting through and past the third bolt would be interesting on lead. A good route if you are looking for something to do and get a bit scared on.
I agree. I climbed this route last summer and it kicked my butt! I regularly climb 5.10 but for some reason I had a really hard time getting up this 5.8. It was quite sandy and loose.
I don't remember son of tedricks being very sandy....might have gotten some sand on it since i did it, but regardless...I agree with Brian. the route sketched me and my partner out and it is tougher than a 5.8 I liked it though. Zig zag your way across the rock and your're set. All the moves were fun and the 3 bolts were in pretty good shape. well worth it.
Son of Tedricks has new anchors. Stewart Green and Brian Shelton replaced the old pitons and chains with new stainless steel 1/2" bolts and rings that are less visible and more secure. Thanks to Climbing Magazine and Petzl for supplying the anchors.
North Gateway Rock
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