End of an Era is the sharp arete located just to the left of Bob's Buttress Crack and to the right of New Era on the east face of Kindergarten Rock. I have found it easiest to park in the South Garden Parking Lot and then walk North to get to Kindergarten Rock. From the road there is a short climbers trail going up to a large boulder on the east side of Kindergarten Rock. The climb is behind this boulder. There are two starts to the climb:
Option 1: Go straingt up the arete to get to the first bolt which will be about 25 feet up from the base of the arete. This is rated at a 5.10 as a direct approach. Option 2: Start at the bottom of Bob's Buttress Crack and place a nut in the crack to protect you and your belayer from being pulled down a steep hill should you fall before the first bolt. From there climb up and left to get on the arete up to the first bolt.
Follow the bolts up the arete and don't forget to enjoy the view. There are two bolts at a lowering station about 70' off the deck.
Really an excellent route on solid rock (yes, there is some at the Garden) with friendly holds and great position. Not being solid at the grade, I've always taken the Bob's Traverse. The direct start may well push this into three star territory.
The hanger on the second bolt is gone. You can take up a small nut and use it as a replacement hanger or reach right and use the old pin on the face climb (I forget the name but it has a pin about 5 feet directly right of the missing hanger) for protection.
The hanger on the second bolt is still missing, which made me back off of the lead as I've never had the balls to use a wired nut on a bolt. Another option to doing this route safely is to climb Bob's Crack and use the anchor to toprope any line you fancy on the whole face. Only drawback is the sizeable pendulum waiting for you after your topout - best to swing off a few feet early or change your anchor once there to lower off.
The holds on this route are sharp, dish-like, and angle upwards - fun climbing.
"End of an Era" and "End to End" have a new, modern set of anchors--2 1/1" stainless steel bolts with chain and stainless steel rings. Both are backed up by a good fixed piton. The first piton that fell out last year has been replaced with a 1/2" bolt and a new hanger was placed on second bolt of "Death of the Dinosaurs" (the hanger was previously stolen), so now both routes are once again reasonably well-protected leads. Thanks to Climbing Magazine and Petzl for donating the hardware to update the routes.
By Erik Tullberg From: Colorado Springs Jul 10, 2008
Just climbed this last night. One of the new bolts and hanger are loose. The bolt is not bad, but it moves enough to deserve comment especially since because of the chain length, that bolt takes most of the weight on rappel.
**note*** bolt has been tightened.
Still a great climb, especially with the direct start.
Kindergarten Rock
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