Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
South Gateway Rock
Show routes:
Select route...
Candyman 
Cocaine 
Cold Turkeys 
Credibility Gap 
Cresent Corner 
Fixer, The 
Kor's Korner 
Mighty Thor 
Ninety-Nine Per Cent Pure 
Practice Slab 
Pure Energy 
Rocket Fuel 
Silver Spoon 
There Goes The Neighborhood 
West Point Crack 

Credibility Gap 

5.9+

   

FA: Gary Zeigler, John Auld 1960's FFA Morgan Gadd, Skip Hamilton 1970
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.9 [details]
Length: 2 pitches
Views: 751 page views

Submitted By: Barrett Cooper on Aug 15, 2001


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (22)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

Steve Marr climbing just above the first bolt.


Description 

The route begins behind a large boulder about 70' to the right of West Point Crack. The first piton if reached by getting between the boulder and South Gateway Rock and climbing up and left on a steep ramp. From there, follow the obvious line where the white and red sandstone meet and form a crack/edge. This leads to a face climb protected by 4 pins straight up to double anchors. Rap from the anchors or continue up the second pitch. I have never done the second pitch, but it is rated 5.8 and climbs up and left from the anchors. My guidebook says it goes over a ramp to a wide flake. Also there is another climb listed in my book that traverses right from the anchors and is rated 5.10d.

  • **Warning*** I have never heard of anyone climbing Credibility Gap and not breaking off a piece of rock. This is the climb that convinced one of my climbing partners to get a helmet. Not for leading the route but for belaying. The belayer is forced below the climber between the boulder and South Gateway Rock right in line with anything that gets knocked off.


Protection 

A couple of fixed pitons in the crack followed by 4 drilled pins on the face climbing to double anchors.



Add Photo Photos of Credibility Gap
Just below the crux.

Just below the crux.

On the face, at the last bolt before the anchors.

On the face, at the last bolt before the anchors.

Moving towards the anchors.

Moving towards the anchors.

Clipping after the crux sequence on Credibility Gap.

Clipping after the crux sequence on Credibility Ga...

Moving through the crux bulge on twin jugs.  Photo by Shayna Breslin.

Moving through the crux bulge on twin jugs. Photo...

Drake making it for the first time!!

Drake making it for the first time!!

Looking down in triumph

Looking down in triumph

You have to love the big pot holes and buckets you can grab and step in.

You have to love the big pot holes and buckets you...

Aaron leading. First clip is way off the deck, There is not a whole lot of room for gear but the holds are pretty good.

Aaron leading. First clip is way off the deck, The...

Reaching the anchors.

Reaching the anchors.

Here is a shot of Credibility Gap as seen from Montezuma Tower.

Here is a shot of Credibility Gap as seen from Mon...


Add Comment Comments on Credibility Gap
Show which comments
By David Danforth
From: California/Colorado
Oct 31, 2002

True about the belay stance. i saw someone fall at the 4th pin (i think) just as they were about to clip in. when she fell, her draw slammed to the ground and i was about 300 feet away but i heard it hit the ground. Other than that, its a great climb. Fun. The bolts are a little old but they are deffinetely solid. Another one of those routes that plays with your mind if you let it.

By Evan Pilant
Sep 27, 2003

The route has gotten a lot of traffic in the past few months and is now relatively clean. I have lead this one over 4 times now without having stuff crumble away in my hands. This route definitely messes with your mind a little. Great route! Recommend to just about anyone.

By David Conlin
Oct 24, 2003
rating: 5.9-

I climbed this several times during 1997-1999. Never pulled off a single piece of rock. But my friend says his partner pulled off a sizeable boulder (est. 3-400 lbs.), almost killing his sister. Watch out!

By Sirius
From: Oakland, CA
Dec 2, 2003
rating: 5.9+

Route seemed to be in good shape as of this weekend - 1 out of 3 holds were sandy, but nothing broke off while we were climbing it. Chalk is caked all over the handholds that everybody uses which made me think they've been solid and, hopefully, will continue to be so.

The crux for me was the bit with twin underclings that lead you over a smooth bulge to a sidepull - kind of like climbing a whale's forehead by pulling on her nostrils. And then an eyebrow, I guess. Once past this, it's your choice: left to a mantel move or straight up to sloping pockets.

By Anonymous Coward
Jun 18, 2004

I found an old beat up carabiner half way up the first pitch and I snarfed it. Then the next day I ran into the people who left it there. They were Colorado College girls and they were babes. I was eager to give their biner back but I didn't have it with me when I met them. So, girls until I see you again, I guess I'll just enjoy the biner.

By Steve Marr
From: North Pole/Fairbanks, AK
Jul 11, 2004
rating: 5.9

Great climb. Climbed Credibility Gap on June 16th, 2004. The rock was solid, and we didn't have any problems with sandy or brittle holds. The runout to the first bolt can be protected by slinging a blunt horn about 1/2 way up from the ground. Additionally, there is another pot hole between the last pin and the anchor that will provide a little security for the final moves to the anchor. The last two pins are about 18" apart, and the upper pin is a little loose. Well worth the time.

By Drizake
Oct 27, 2004
rating: 5.9+

I just had my first successful lead climb on credibility and it was awesome!! There were almost no loose rocks and the pitons were in good shape.A piece of advice though...ensure you have decent size biners as the eyelets at the first belay are HUGE! I spent a couple of minutes and too much energy trying to get myself clipped in. I found the crux to be at the third or fourth piton where you have twin holes. A little sketchy for my lead skills, but trusting my grip finally got me through it!! I was so sike to finally make it to the top of Cred. without falling. Highly recommend this climb!!!

By Anonymous Coward
Jun 28, 2005

One of the Garden's best. CG is a nostalgic climb for me, as it pillowed my first fall on lead.

Climb this after work for the best place in all of the Front Range to watch winter sunsets. It's just you, the Piker, and the first stars of evening... Aye!

By Larry Shaw
Jul 28, 2005
rating: 5.9

Climbed this one for the first time today. I don't know why I've waited so long to get on it but this route is one of the better ones in the [Garden]. We climbed [Crescent] .9+ the same day and this felt much easier, guess it because the feet are better on this one.

By Nathan Hoobler
Mar 4, 2007

Led this one yesterday. It sure felt like a long way to that first bolt, even though it's fairly easy climbing. Overall, great moves and great rock. It was fun to do something a bit more vertical and a little less slabby in the Garden. Terrific view of Pikes as others have mentioned.