The East Face of North Gateway is closed to climbers every year from around Feb 1 until early August, depending on when the birds fledge. It's not posted out there, but since the closure has been in effect for 20+ years it is incumbent on climbers to know about closures by stopping in at the visitor center and asking. The falcons always nest in a big pothole above the traverse ledge and below the Kissing Camels arch.
BETA PHOTO
Description
This is a good route on the North side of Gateway rock. It ascends a wide crack that is also the start of Men At Work but continues up and left. The crack leads to a small pedastal where you can rest before starting the hard climbing. Traverse left across a series of potholes protected by drilled pins. After about 25' head straight up on thin face holds (crux) to a bolted anchor above. The pitch is 90'. Ric Geiman's book calls this route 10+ and it may have been when Ed Webster did the first ascent but it has become very slick at the crux and some of the holds have worn away making it very difficult for 5.10.......
one of my favorite routes in the garden although slick. After the first pitch I usually go right to a 60ft aid traverse. then eathier strait up over a small overhang or right on some very loose rock to a 5.6 last pitch. a beautiful route to enjoy as the sun sets!
North Gateway Rock
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