Derek Kruse gets a nip of Rocket Fuel and takes of...
Description
This route is located on the east side of South Gateway Rock on the Drug Wall. The fastest way to get there is to park at the main parking area on the north side of the loop. Rocket Fuel will be on the left side of the cement path just before you get to the Twin Spires formation. The route works its way up the slab to a face climb left of the blocky roofs that make up Crescent Corner. Also left of Might Thor (seam next to Crescent Corner).
Difficult slab/thin edge climbing at the bottom to a pumpy face climb up pockets before the ledge anchor.
It's worth mentioning that at least as of a few years ago, this was a safe, fun lead. There are pins all over the face, and as long as you trust 30 year old iron, you'll be stoked.
Once you get to the first pin, this climb seems quite well protected and looks like fun.However, I find it interesting that there is no mention of the healthy run to the first pin (even by Garden standards). While I have come to expect such runouts at the Garden, my tail was placed securely between my legs as I backed off of this one, finding mandatory 5.8+/5.9 insecure slab moves well off the deck and well below the first pin.Perhaps I took the wrong path, or there used to be another pin here, or I somehow missed a protection opportunity. Could be that my spirit is just weak. Either way, heads up on this one.
I am just now getting around to my "tick list" and putting my two cents in on CB. I climbed this with Darin over Labor Day weekend and I just have a few comments to add. The beta is very accurate. The anchors are the same as Mighty Thor and you can rap the route with a 60m rope with a few feet to spare on each end.
From what I saw the runout to the 1st pin was just that: really, really run out. This climb changed "personalities" about three different times. The bottom is fairly moderate, standard GoG slab, unprotected but not impossible. The middle is easily the crux. Your slab skills better be sharpened on this section. Once you get under the headwall, you get into the "gym" section. Face climbing on pockets and the standard slopey edges gets you up and over the ledge. A few more edgy moves gets you the anchor.
If you are looking for a good way to try this route, I suggest the following: Lead up Mighty Thor (awesome route), have a second clean that route. Put draws on the anchors up top, rap off the draws. You can then TR Rocket Fuel. Worked well for Darin and I when we got on this really fun route. Definitely worth the attempt. Adios!
Whomever declared that it has three distinct personalities was spot on in their assessment. The climbing on the upper headwall was a bit more difficult, IMO, but that's perhaps because I was beat by the time I got up to it.
30 or so feet to the first pin. There were several pin lines and I went up the furthest right line. It only had two pins to the headwall and thin slab in the middle. The headwall makes the climb and is tons of fun with good feet....man I hate garden slab :)
Another option is to do what I did: Lead mighty thor, then lower down over this route (or any of the three routes with equally high pins: the fixer, pure energy, rocket fuel) and clip the first pin. Pull the rope carefully and the rope should stay clipped to the first pin.
GREAT climb. I absolutely love slab climbing, and the first 60 feet of Rocket Fuel and Pure Energy are as good as it gets for sandstone. The headwall is tricky, but if you follow the pockets on the right it seems only to be hard 10 I would guess.
The slab portion of this climb would be rated 5.8 if it were granite!
By Bosier Parsons From: Colorado Springs, CO Aug 16, 2009
I led this today - great climb. You can place a #0.75 Camalot to protect the first 20 feet or so, but soon enough this becomes worthless. Then just below the first pin, you can place a green C3 Camalot (#0), which may or may not hold. Above the second pin you can also place a medium stopper or a #0.4 Camalot (grey). Either way, the slab at the bottom really isn't bad if you're ready for this climb, but I was still glad to place some gear. Hope that helps....