New Era 

The two drilled pins mentioned as the anchor mid-pitch 1 are good for drilled angles, but very old ring angle pitons. There is okay gear on the last pitch, but it is very tricky to find.If one leaves slings around the fridge-sized knob on the summit, a rap can be made to the anchors at the top of the secodn pitch of Diesel and Dust, and then another to the first anchors and to the ground. One 60 metre will get you down this.

I give this rap beta because the decent mentioned above is quite tricky. There may be an easier way, but the way I have done it requires some easy 5th downclimbing which could well scare an inexperienced climber. Since this is a great moderate, it is good to know that an alternate descent exists.

Watch out for hornets (or wasps. I didn't have time to get a good look at them but I know they sting!) on the first pitch. They will make the climb a little more exciting.

About a year and a half ago my friend lost his #2camalot on this route. The cam was gone on the following day when he went back to get it. Be careful about placing cams at the crux lieback at the top of the first pitch. This crack is notorious for snagging gear, especially cams in the #2 Camalot range. I suppose someone acquired a #2 Camalot that day. As Dave mentioned, the descent is a bit sketchy. I have always exited the summit via the downclimb and have never rap'd from the top, but sounds like a good idea. I have almost always used the downclimb (once in the dark!), so be careful. Shane

The large block that is mentioned as a possible rap anchor in the comments above can be reached in one pitch from the ground with a 60m rope. The downclimb is not so bad, just watch where you are going and you'll be fine. No need to rap at the end of the descent, cut left (facing down the rock) and look for a low angle ramp that leads to the gound.

Figured I'd add my two cents about the downclimb - seems to be the buzz about this route. We got to the top of the second pitch just as the last traces of light dissappeared and made the downclimb in almost total darkness. It was a bit frightening, but really not that difficult, just use caution! There are some rap anchors near the bottom that seem to be just to the right (looking down) of what I believe Bryson is describing as the low angle ramp (which looked too foreboding in the darkness).

Regards

A classic climb, and deservedly so. While it's composed of the same type of Dakota sandstone as everything else in the park, it appears to have a different quality -- more incut and solid, IMHO. Definitely not a climb for new leaders, I would suggest that the grades here (and, generally, over on Kindergarten Rock) are a little stiffer than those found in the rest of the Garden.

In light of the discussion about the downclimb, I went ahead and added the S. Ridge of Kindergarten rock as a separate route. Its fairly detailed (IMHO) - so check it out and add comments:)

Don't know if they were there when the comments began, but as of 12/31/02, there are double anchors at the top of the rock directly above both "Alligator Soup" and "Diesel and Dust". These can be accessed from the top of the route by walking South along the ridge to the large "V" in the formation. Both sets of anchors are about 10 feet below the path, so you have to look over the edge to locate them. Can't vouch for "Diesel and Dust" descent, but 3 rappels down "Alligator Soup" will get you to the ground. If you have a 50 meter rope, be sure to get your center mark right at the anchors, since all 3 raps a very close to 25 meters.

Nice, nice climb. One of the better ones in the area I've done. I've only done the first 2 pitches 'cause of the walkoff and prefer rappelling the route which was convenient and a fun rap. the first pitch was pretty fun. cruising up the extremely solid rock. Nice set of old anchors. What else is new? They're solid though. The route is kinda funky just above that, though. There aren't too many good places for pro. I don't know what there is deep in the crack to the climbers right, but there were a few semi-solid places to put some medium pro in on the left. There's a single, heaven-sent bolt just below the lieback section. the lieback was straight up awesome. i threw in a cam half way, not completely necessary and probably just made me more tired, but what the hell. The belay is a nice little alcove...Theres actually a little chipmunk, too, who has a home just below the station. Watch out for him (or her) It's a hairy .7 though. So, any leader heading up should be very competent at the grade. Tear it up. -Cheers-

Easiest descent from New Era: climb the route to the top-out, then drop into the first easy notch to the east. Find a pair of bolts at a ledge. Three 25m rap's with a single cord, or one long rope-stretcher with twin 60's will put you on the ground.

FYI: the left bolt at the top anchors wiggles a bit, and doesn't feel really bomber. Someone with the proper judgement and skill might consider replacing it...

There are two new bolts added at the second belay alcove. Very nice climb with good places for medium pro at the crux 1-2". nice climb all the way to the top on the airy fin.

Great 2 or 3 pitch climb. I recommend combining the first two pitches. One of the few good reasons to climb in the Garden.

Don't, don't, don't stop to belay at the first anchor!! This classic climb becomes even more classic done as one pitch to the second alcove. No rope drag at all if you do the direct start and use slings. Just be sure to keep a #1 or #2 cam, or both, for the crux at the top.

Sweet climb...a Garden classic and one of my favorites..almost has a Red Rocks feel to it.

Spinning bolt at the second belay and the route is kinda getting brittle and sandy. Still kicks butt though. The slings at the top of the route have been replaced by some cordage. Might want to sling that rock a few more times for backup.

On previously mentioned rappel above "Alligator Soup" today, discovered that all hangers from top of second pitch of both "Alligator Soup" and "Diesel and Dust" are no longer there. Bolts are still there but the hangers have been taken. So you must do a two rope rappel from the top to get to the anchors at the top of the first pitch. A single rope rappel from the top will get you nowhere but into trouble. Had not read Chris R.'s comment about two 60s getting you to the ground so didn't try but finished descent with a single rope rappel from the top of pitch one of "Alligator Soup" to the ground. Bottom line: if you don't have two ropes don't try getting down this way until someone lets us know that the hangers have been replaced. And may we make a community New Year's resolution to soundly thrash anyone that we discover has removed hangers from any route anywhere.

Finally did this route after being denied by other parties several times. Good stuff. We ended at the alcove belay and rapped down. Right hanger moves a bit.

Another party that went to the top mentioned that there was no webbing up there and they added a piece. They rapped off with 2 ropes hanging on the webbing - I wouldn't use any webbing up there until it's replaced.

Just climbed this route today for the first time, this is one of the better Garden climbs. We did the climb in three pitches with the direct start (climb the direct start, much better than the easy climb to the left). My biggest gripe is the lack of anchors at the top-out to rappel from, we had to down climb the incredible sketchy south ridge.

I did this route again today. It's always fun to go out and repeat something that you haven't done in a while, and this a great, exposed route to have so close to home. My partner and I did the first two pitches in one long one (as everyone else recommends) with the direct start, and I agree, this is the best way. We also did the short pitch to the top and left a sling on the large horn with a cold-shut. It's a sand colored sling, and should be good for a little while. Of course, back it up as you feel needed.

Also, we attempted this route two weeks ago, but got turned away due to rain. My partner ended up having to lower off the first pitch on a cam, about 20 feet from the ground. We went back shortly after, and it has been retrieved. If you took this cam, please be cool and let me know.

There is another option to using a sling on the horn at the top. Looking out and around the right side of the horn, over the edge is a step that you can downclimb to. An anchor has been placed there. Our party used this instead of slinging the horn. It's a lot easier to retrieve the rope than slinging the horn. BE SAFE!

Looks like there are two fairly new pitons at the top of the route just left and below the horn that most people have used to put a sling around. They are a little rusty, (I think it's fairly new rust) but they look like they were placed by someone who knew what they were doing. The pitons are deep and and solid. No apparent fractures around them. Anyway, I slapped a sling in there (olive green) and rapped off. (I backed it up while I watched my partner descend...) Was solid enough and it may eliminate the need for leaving too much crap on the rocks for future climbs.

Side note. The route directly to the right of New Era (First Pitch) is CRAP. Very sandy and loose and crumbly. Uncharacteristic of the rocks in the immediate area. If you are planning to lead it... don't. Not worth the effort. Stick to the New Era crack. It's a beautiful climb.

The best part of the climb is the walkoff itself! My partner and I climbed this line finally last weekend,and it was of course quite cold in the shade given the season. Once on top, we looked around the summit area and enjoyed the warmth. I climbed up and down some of the features just for fun. Then we sussed out a line down that was not only easy, but full of interesting geological features like boxwork. Such a fun combination downclimb and scramble. We opted to rappel off of the eyebolts on the lower slab instead of using the ramp.

Dose anyone else out there think the first anchor needs to be replaced? The eye on the BD type angle is extremely poor and the old ring angle...well it's just that old. Such a high use pitch should have a bomber belay anchor.

The anchor at the end of Pitch 1 is on the anchor replacement to-do list. Hopefully it will be improved and modernized this autumn after Climbing Mag and Petzl sends some new hardware for the effort.

Not sure what may constitue as a scary anchor but pitch one seems fine to me. Climbed it today and it has one very solid bolt and a old school hammered piton that looks as solid as any I've seen. I'd be more prone to pull the buttonhead on p2, so no one hurts themselves if they take a fall on it than replace belay anchor #1. By the way, pitch 2 belay has one loose bolt, but there are several other belay pitons to add security if you feel uncomfortable.

I agree with Joshua. For those that like to do this route on the fixed gear only, replacing that buttonhead below the lieback would certainly make the last 20 feet a little easier on the nerves. I've never taken a fall on that piece, but I certainly wouldn't want to test it. I think this single piece is much more insecure than the P1 anchors, especially considering that the greatest fall potential on the entire route is on the lieback, not P1.

Almost a year after the last post and I still feel that P1 anchor is solid. My buddy leaned back on those while I climbed. The pinhead below the crux made me nervous. I wouldn't want to take a fall on it so I shoved a cam in as soon as I felt the need. Epic climb.

Fantastic route, not to be missed. In fact, the whole scene on the East face of this rock is better than most in the Garden. For one thing, the area is largely free of tourists and the scale of the rock leads to more adventure.

See my comments about the decent on the South Ridge route. Basically we headed off North instead of south and circled around the spire to gain the second gully instead of making the traverse directly.

Did New Era for the first time today. One of my favorite climbs ever with tons of exposure. Speaking for the rappel, we rapped off the first bolts directly under and left of the summit. This rap went nearly straight down and was fairly straight foward. Here you have to sling through two pins and probaly leave some webbing. We repelled down and had to go very far right (looking at the wall) to get to the anchors at the first pitch of New Era. If you plan to do the rappel in this way, make sure you are very comfortable traversing because you will likely have to take both hands off the atc and traverse towards the pins. Is there a better way to do this rappel?

John,
Not sure what anchors you were rapping from. If you did the third, and seldom done, third pitch of New Era, it leads to a huge horn that can be slung for rappel. I remember a few old pins along this pitch for pro, but none for anchors. However, there are a couple of old pins at the top of the New Generation pitch (sometimes used as a second pitch for Diesel and Dust). These anchors consist of old pins (left one is actually two pins stacked in the hole) with webbing laced through them. These anchors lie above and directly south (left) of the belay alcove at the top of New Era pitch 2. Perhaps you traversed to these anchors after leaving the belay alcove for your final pitch, as opposed to climbing up to the big horn? This wouldn't be much of a pitch, as these pins are only about 15 feet above and and 15 feet across from the belay alcove. Regardless, if you were rapping from here, it's tough to rap to any other pitch if you only have one rope (two should get to the ground). When climbing New Generation, I've found that it's actually easier to traverse over to the New Era belay alcove, and then make the straightfoward raps to the ground. If rapping from the true summit of New Era pitch 3, it's best to rap right back in to the belay alcove, (or top of New Era P1 if you can make it) and then to the ground. Either way, be safe. If you're forced to traverse rock with no hands on the brake, you're doing something wrong. If you follow the natural line for the third pitch of New Era, the rappel is right back down the route.

Cody

Cody,

It is very straightforard to get to the two (or three pitons) connected by webbing, no arguments. Without two ropes though, which direction are you supposed to go. I'm not sure where the other routes you are speaking of are as I'm not that familiar with the area. IF you head to the right (while looking at the cliff), you have to make that very tough traverse I mentioned. That traverse aligns you back on the New Era route at the location of the first pitch. Are there rappel rings somewhere to the left (from the webbing). From the webbing, you can't make it to the bottom without two ropes. The rappel description doesn't mention needing a second rope so I'm not sure what the best option is here... Have you done the rappel cleanly with a single rope after gettting to the webbing?

John

John,
No. Honestly, I wouldn't try to rap off of those anchors. They looked a bit manky to me. When I have found myself at those anchors (a couple of times after climbing the New Generation pitch as a second pitch to Diesel and Dust), I've immediately traversed over to the belay alcove at the top of New Era. This traverse isn't done on rappel. I belay from those crappy anchors and allow my partner to climb over and down into the alcove. He then puts me on belay, and I then make the unprotected traverse to the alcove as well. Again, it's unprotected and dangerous, and I'm not telling anyone else to do it, but this is our preferred method because you basically can't rap off of the New Generation anchors with only one rope and easily make it to any other anchors below (easiest would probably be the D&D anchors, which are down and left).
The other, and safer option for getting off the wall when at the New Generation anchors is to climb up the true final pitch of New Era until reaching the huge horn that marks the end of New Era. From here one can easily sling the horn and rap straight back down the New Era route. Stopping at either the belay alcove or the pitch 1 anchors on New Era.

Basically, if you were at the top of New Generation, you were off route from New Era. The true final pitch of New Era goes straight up from the belay alcove (somewhat unprotected and easy climbing), not up and directly left to the pins and webbing you found yourself at. However, if you weren't at the anchors at the top of New Generation, then I'm not sure where you were. Was the leftmost anchor made of two stacked pins?

Cody,
I really thought I was clear but you seem to be misunderstanding. We climbed New Era. The Entire Route. On Route. When we got to the top the objective was to rap down to where we started. On the face of the wall facing the same direction as the New Era Route (away from Montezuma's kinda) there are two rappel anchors. If you rappel off of these, you arrive down and two the left slightly at the slung three piton anchor. From this anchor, you have to try to make it back to the first belay on New Era. That is the challenging part. We didn't get to the slung rappel anchors while climbing. It is the second rappel location if you follow what we thought was the usual rap route. It sounds like your saying there is one farther to the left though when looking at the rock. Is that true? My interest has faded in this matter personally. I'm purely trying to warn fellow climbers that the rappel off the top from New Era is not as simple as it may seem. (Unless we missed something). Be prepared for somewhat of a mystery if you are doing the rappel.

John

I'm with ya now John. Yeah, this is turning into a novel. You were definitely at the New Generation anchors, and I can see why you stopped there if you were rapping from the summit of New Era. They are pretty much directly below.

For fellow climbers - those weren't placed for retreating off of New Era. They're actually the end point of an old, seldom-climbed line. Don't use them. When rapping from the top of New Era, the better method is to just reverse New Era. It may be a bit tricky to get back into the belay alcove, but will save you a headache in the end.

Be safe.

Climbed New Era today with my wife. One of the best routes in the Garden -- great rock, lots of exposure, variety of moves. Combined the first two pitches to the belay alcove, then rapped back down from there. Solid rap anchors in the belay alcove, but requires two ropes (my 70m rope would have been at least 10m short).

Tried to climb this route today and would have made it if not for the wasps that stung the crap outa me about 2/3 of the way up 1st pitch. Don't know if there is a nest there as I didn't hang around for a look. The leader stemmed that section and had no problems.

Just a heads up on the hand jams in that area or if you're placing pro. Two other parties had no problems that we were aware of, but I had let them know so I assume they stemmed across that area.