Chris Russelavage - following Chad McFadden on Mon...
Description
This climb is located on the west side of Kindergarten rock. To get there park at the Kindergarten rock parking area. Cross the road and before getting to the formation cut into the wash and follow the trail at the base of the rock around the backside. Along the backside there will be an outcropping of rock (maybe 500 ft or so), the crack is located on the left side of this formation.
The rock is a little loose at the start and can be protected using some small gear (aliens, micro cams). As you climb higher the crack widens and the bigger stuff is needed. Save a very large cam for the last 15 ft. before the ledge. There are bolts on the ledge to anchor and repel from.
Protection
Bring the big stuff. A very large cam is needed to protect the last few feet of the climb. I think that I used a #5 Camalot.
This is a great lead for placing rockcentrics/hexcentrics (you can easily sew this up using 2/3's of a set). Bring a stopper (or two, to prevent a zipper) for the bottom. As I recall there is a pin on the right side before the crack goes off-width. Above that you can use large (#4 or #5) cams, but they might slow you down as most people lie-back the finish. The crack is very positive but if needed you can exit the lie-back early and face climb on the right of the dihedral.
If you plan on climbing Scarecrow, it might be worthwhile to continue past the anchors to the right up to the Scarecrow/Lance anchors (Scarecrow protects well, but sounds hollow). Climbs over on the west side see few ascents, so may be sandy. Your reward is solitude.
What a garden gem...the whole gammit of climbing moves..dihedral to hand crack to chimney to offwidth..Nice and secluded without tourists...There is one fixed pin on the route but beware....That thing is bent about 45 degrees and it's doubtfull if it would hold another fall. bring the #5 cam for the top or a bigbro if you have one. rap with one 60m or two 50s. beware if using one 50 as it comes up about 10ft. short.
By Bosier Parsons From: Colorado Springs, CO Feb 27, 2005
i lead this up to about 4 feet above the piton, but had to back off when i found the my largest cam was too small (3.5). my partner led the rest of it and used his big bros to protect the last few moves up to the top (the green and blue bro's). the off width section can be done lay back, but if you choose to jam it, you have bomber chicken wings, and a knee jam that make it easy. i think the crux is the move from the off width/ chimney around to the belay ledge.
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