Jeff Russell redpointing Grapefruit Dance (photo: ...
Description
Grapefruit Dance is a short, gymnastic, overhanging sport route, one of the few in Garden of the Gods. It is located on the northern end of the west face of North Gateway Rock, just uphill from the Blowouts bouldering area. To reach it, simply approach the bulging overhang on the north end of the west face. Walk along the cliff-line to the most overhanging sport, where you'll find the Blowouts, identifiable by lots of chalk next to a cave. Walk uphill maybe 100 feet. Grapefruit Dance is also covered in chalk, with 4 drilled pins, closely spaced, leading about 35 feet out the overhang to a 2 drilled pin and slings anchor just over the initial bulge.
The climb: scramble awkwardly up the first few feet onto a ledge where you can reach the first bolt. With a small, left-hand crimp, reach out right (5.11) onto good holds. Climb huge crimps past two more bolts (5.10) to a juggy hueco next to the third bolt. Either dyno or get French, but snag the jug above you and clip the 4th bolt before bumping up on slopey crimps to clip the anchor.
Protection
4 drilled pins to a 2 drilled pin anchor, bring 4 quickdraws.
Hey Dan and Jeff! This is Paul Kelly in NH. What's up? Jeff Mead told me to check out this site. This is good stuff when you've got nothing to do in study.... Later guys.
My brother Jeff repeated this route a couple weeks ago, and the crux bolt (actually a drilled pin) is missing. I'm not sure if it was chopped or pulled out or what, but it's not there. So, now if you biff the crux, you'll take quite a fall, but you shouldn't deck. He still did it, in any case....
I've always seen it graded .12a or .12b, usually the latter, in several guides. The one I own is the Soft Touch III guide, which I believe gives it .12b.
Why...do you think it's easier? or harder? Always seemed about on for me....
I was just wondering if the route was 12b in any book really. I thought it was a 12a that packs a punch. Good little route worth doing.
By Bosier Parsons From: Colorado Springs, CO Aug 19, 2004
The drilled angle at the crux has been replaced.
I heard the hand hold above the dyno move broke some time ago (pre - 99?) improving the hold above, from which you clip the fourth bolt. When I did it (sometime around '98 or '99) I thought it was about 11d, but I didn't get it clean, either.
Grapefruit Dance now has new modern anchors...stainless steel bolts and descending rings. A special thanks to Climbing Magazine and Petzl for donating the hardware.
By Bosier Parsons From: Colorado Springs, CO Nov 21, 2007
There is a hold on this right now that is marked with a white chalk X. Anyone know what this means? Is it a loose death flake or something?
North Gateway Rock
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