The East Face of North Gateway is closed to climbers every year from around Feb 1 until early August, depending on when the birds fledge. It's not posted out there, but since the closure has been in effect for 20+ years it is incumbent on climbers to know about closures by stopping in at the visitor center and asking. The falcons always nest in a big pothole above the traverse ledge and below the Kissing Camels arch.
This route starts at a left-leaning 5.5 handcrack about 100ft south of the Blowouts bouldering pit. It follows an old pin ladder past many huge, nifty potholes. Climb the handcrack until level with some pockets and a drilled pin is up and right, place a cam or two (double ropes would be very useful here, otherwise you must runner this piece until it is virtually useless) and head right and up, supplementing the poor pin with some strategic tricams (three smallest). Head straight up, discovering a welcome pin drilled inside a pothole. Encounter the one move 5.11 crux dyno (the route goes at 5.9 A0 by pulling and standing on the pin here) which is very height dependent, harder if short. Follow the pins to the top, passing a bit of loose rock. The pin anchor is 35 meters up, so if you have a single 60 you must downclimb the crack, which is easy. Vintage Garden fun.
Protection
Many drilled pins of variable quality. Bring a #3 Friend and some small tricams for the start. Some slings for tying off shallow pins. Fixed anchor.
By Bosier Parsons From: Colorado Springs, CO Oct 9, 2004
The crux is well-protected. Other sections of the route are a bit run-out, but on easier climbing. However, I still thought the route was pretty sustained at 9+ and 5.10, with the crux and maybe one or two other harder moves. Classic garden route. 70M rope works great for TR.
By Bosier Parsons From: Colorado Springs, CO Mar 16, 2007
I regret to inform everyone that while leading this route this afternoon, the key flake at the crux dyno move finally broke off. I cleaned it up and worked it for a while and could not get the same move, as it now goes to a sloping, sandy hold. I think it can be solved, and I know if you can get beyond the dyno move, the next move is now a difficult mantle. However, in my weakened and pumped condition, I could not solve the problem, so not sure how hard it might now be, but definitely more difficult.
By phil wortmann From: Manitou Springs, Co. Apr 20, 2008 rating: 5.11c
Did this route yesterday for the first time. I didn't see a need for any pro besides quick draws, although the first pin is a bit high. I found the crux dynamic move to be pretty stiff, (.11c-ish?) and the hold was very small and very sandy.
The dyno move has gotten even harder. The ledge broke that you throw to sometime during the summer now just a little crimp. GOOD luck, throw to the right now.
RSS Feed
