South Ridge, White Twin Spire 

This is a good beginner route and has a few good moves on it. The best is a big step up over a sligt overhang that is well protected by the second and last pin. The first pin is hidden in a pocket about 18ft up so it is hard to see from the ground, but it is there.A small cam or stopper will provide psycological protection if placed in one of the multiple small cracks and pockets that get you up to the first pin. This is a tourist climb, which means you will be the center of attention of the throngs of tourists who walk through the inner Garden and love to talk to your belayer as you climb since this climb is on the main pathway.

Nice view of the park from the summit. I've found a #2 camalot can be creatively placed down low - in the top of the crack right after the first few moves. Then I usually place one more piece before the first pin. I know. I'm a wus. On the other hand, those pins look to be older than I am.

They say the crux is getting off the sidewalk. I say the crux is the last move before the top of the tower. I've been told its better to go left, but I (and everyone I've seen) always go right (there's a short, offwidth crack type move that goes through and over the little overhang at the top - that's the move that Barret was describing). Yes, the tourists WILL gather around, and they will undoubtedly give your second way more applause than you, but such is life in the garden.

I lived in Colorado Springs for a couple of years and started my climbing in 'the garden'. Answering questions is just part of the climbing there. I recommend going to Kindergarden Rock and avoiding the crowds and video cameras. However, one sunny Saturday afternoon I was on the second pitch of New Era. A tourist bus immediately pulled over and stopped. Out came two dozen people, equipped with video cameras and still cameras. I stopped in the middle of the pitch and stared back at them. I line of cars had also stopped to watch. Soon I had the attention of fifty people. So, what the hell do I know. Stick to Sheep's Nose.

It was suggested to me that the easier way to go is over the left side of the bulge above the seond pin. I tried it yesterday and it is a lot easier. Thanks for the beta Sean

Crux move is getting off ground. Some go up the squeeze crack with slippery left foot smear, others start on West face far right, traverse some feet up and move right back into crack. Cams can go in pockets or cracks prior to first fixed clip. Moving left undercling at last pin under bulge is definitely "easier" than offwidth overhang with little finger grip to right. Either way, a very fun climb!

FYI - there's no need - in my oppinon, anyway - to shy away from this one if you don't have trad gear. I've probably led this one half a dozen times or so with various parties, and have yet to place a supplimental piece. Yes, the first piton is basically half way up the rock - however, the only 5.6 level move getting there is right off the deck - where your only pro is a spotter anyway. The rest of the terrain getting to the first pin is considerably easier (5.4, 5.3, even?). The second pin protects the other 5.6 move - at the upper overhang. Obviously, you should use your own judgement about attempting it without trad gear, but it is doable :)

Agreed about bringing TRAD for the route. It's one of those things that if you think about it, you will probobly want some gear, but if you just climb it, you'll be fine. I've done it many times and I've placed gear a few times. The two difficult moves, like Sean said, are both near protection so there's not much to worry about. The only worry is the dozens of tourists who will probobly be watching you from below, so try and give them a good show. Cheers.

The last time i climbed the south ridge i got up just above the second bolt where you have to step around to the left and kinda make that blance move where ya slide your right foot up very high and stand up on that little table top ledge just below the summit. For me, that was the "challenging" move of the route, thus exciting. However, the last time i climbed it, I notived the move being substantially easier and that somebody had chopped a little foothold into the side of the rock taking away the fun of that one particular move. Chopping on the tourist gully or the approach to the practice slab is one thing, but starting to destroy the already frail, classic, unique climbs in this area is (or any area) pretty f-ed up. Ya know, don't do that crap. it aint cool. If ya see it, stop it. Stuff like that. let's not destory what we have, cause, this beauty isnt always gonna be here and we need to respect the gifts that are given to us. Keep it real. -Cheers-

You can place a number1 cam in any of the pockets along the route if needed. I like the coarseness of the white rock it's not as gritty and brittle as the red.

A not-so-creative #3 or 3.5 Camalot protects the start for free or aid (witnessed yesterday) ascent. You can use lots o' trad gear in the cracks if you don't trust dem 2 ole pins.

Aid climbing White Spire, huh? Yep, its official...there are now officially too many yuppies in this sport

This is my all time favorite climb in the garden. I'm not really sure why, there is so much great climbing around, but there's something really cool about this climb. It is one of the least sustained, least aestetic climbs around, but that only adds to the fun. Almost any time I'm in the central garden and have 10 minutes to spare I seem to wind up on the neat little summit.

I'm not too sure about the choping you mention. I've been climbing this often since 1998 I'd guess, and noticed almost no change, certainly not anything as dramatic as a chopped step.

Oh, and ditto on the lack of trad gear. When I first lead this climb, I was 12, so I sewed it up with really shaky gear, and probably took 20 minute to lead it. Now it just feels like a waste of time to take anything but a couple of draws. All about what ever you are comfortable with.

And to the people who place the bolt on potholes: PLEASE LEAVE THIS CLIMB ALONE!

Pancho- I'm with you all the way. This is one of the best climbs in the Garden. Though not specifically challenging, it is a great test piece for leaders. long, exposed start...Gorgeous! However, I am sad to say that I believe there is some chipping going on (besides the "foot ladders" carved in by the Rangers on routes like this and on Montezuma's Tower). A classic right-hand pinch that forced the weight over to the right side of the ridge just below the second bolt was chipped (I believe) to create a hold so big and flat it could be used as a geriatric rail. I love the GOG, and I plead with the climbing community to respect this incredible place! Here, perhaps more than any other place in Colorado, are in close proximity to the viewing public, who, while they may ask annoying questions, are ASKING BECAUSE THEY ARE FASCINATED! Please, climbers, if for no other reason than for the positive public image of climbers, please don't chip! Be nice to the tourists! Find a local bar or coffee shop and throw some bucks their way! Thanks for your time. Kevin