The first route right of Bob's Buttress Crack (and the only route between Bob's and Ormes' Chimney), ascends the slightly overhanging face on solid incut holds, with some old drilled angles for pro. Climb straight up the face, passing the Bob's Buttress belay on the right, to another two-pin anchor about 15 feet up. Rap off from here. A bit of a runout to the first pin.
Protection
QD's
Add CommentComments on Beginning of the End a/k/a Sandy Monster
The crux move is just below the anchors and used to be protected by a bolt. The bolt is no longer there which makes this climb much more interesting. However before the crux there is the option to do a short, easy traverse to the left to the anchors on Bobs Butt Crack if you don't want to risk the possible runout.
This would indeed be more interesting without that last bolt/pin (I'm remembering a drilled pin and not a bolt, but it's been a while). Was it chopped or did it just come out?
Originally the route was unnamed, way back then I figured it was just a route why would it need a name? Later on Sandy Monster stuck as the incut holds would collect sand after a good rain; always a sign of high quality stone.
In 1988, I put in 4 drilled pins to a 2 pin anchor with webbing and I do recall that it was a fair distance (10ft +/-) to the first pin but the climbing was easy. Somewhere along the way I heard that some of the protection changed or was moved but I do not know the details as I have not been up there in years.
I was the coward listed above (oops, I forgot to put in my name). It may have have been a drilled pin (I don't know because I didn't see anything). When I climbed it last fall I couldn't find the pin/bolt and my second couldn't either. I thought we were just blind and had missed it but then talking to another local climber about it he said it was no longer there, so I thought I would just pass along what we saw (or should I say didn't see). I plan to go look when it gets warmer and will make certain if the pin is there or not. I would hate to be giving bad information just because none of us could see it, so if anyone knows otherwise for sure please post a message.
We checked this route out the other day, and could see no fixed pro at the crux either. Unless you can pull 5.9+ face moves in your sleep, I would highly advise the traverse to the Bob's Butt Crack anchors after pin 2.
Spooky...we all know the story with the runout to the first pin in the garden, but give me a break here...40 feet above a 40% grade full of microwave sized boulders is not exactly how most of us spell party. Call me a weenie all you want, but will someone please retrobolt the start to this thing? I won't tell if you wont...
That wouldn't offend my sensibilities, keeping in mind that my middle name is "Yella". I thought it was a bit runout, even by GoG standards, when there were still three pins.
This would be a great one to rebolt - I took the easy way - on TR after doing Bob's Butt Crack. Lots of fun moves - it must be less than the 5.9+ if you just go to the BBC anchors. Worth the time, but can't say enough that this one seems like it could be a great sport climb if anyone wanted to be that cool.