The East Face of North Gateway is closed to climbers every year from around Feb 1 until early August, depending on when the birds fledge. It's not posted out there, but since the closure has been in effect for 20+ years it is incumbent on climbers to know about closures by stopping in at the visitor center and asking. The falcons always nest in a big pothole above the traverse ledge and below the Kissing Camels arch.
Brian Wandzilak is a study in determination on Low...
Description
Devious 5.7. Climb up the Tourist Gully to an eyebolt just below the level of the Finger alcove, and belay here. Make an interesting traverse straight right to the alcove, and its bolted belay, passing 3 or 4 bolts along the way. Rap from the chain anchor in the alcove, or continue on Upper Finger Traverse (5.9).
Short and sweet. This climb is a fun traverse that goes to the anchor on Finger Ramp. This is a good 5.7 with a bit of sketch factor.
By David Danforth From: California/Colorado Jun 23, 2003
Very good climb. It's odd it doesn't get much more traffic 'cause the line is really nice. Starts up at the first huge eye bolt in the gully. 3 bolts. New compared to say the bolts on Tidricks or A Place in the Sun. They're very solid. The only thing about Fingers Traverse is that it doesnt go at a .7 anymore. Some flakes have broken off in the past yr or so. Adds to the fun. There is a flake just after the third bolt that is coming loose too so watch out for that so you don't pull it out as well. All in all, it's a very nice route and dont pass it up. -cheers-
Good route but be weary that a fairly large hold is missing between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. The route is definitely not a .7 anymore. It wouldn't be that bad of a pendulum but still, just be careful, like Davy always says, CHEERS!
A bit contrived, but good moves on solid (for the Finger Face) rock. This line will be easier for those accustomed to bouldering traverses, as it moves almost parallel to the ground. Accurately rated at 5.7, but it's not a climb for beginners or fresh leaders.
I had not climbed this route previous to the holds breaking off, so I cannot attest to the relative difficulty to it. However, I would not put it any harder than a 5.8. If anything it is a bit of a mind game because it is a different style. But, it is low-angle with apparently solid rock and holds virtually the whole way. A ggreat lead for anyone looking for some GoG variety.
Oh my god! don't let anybody fool you into thinking that this is a 5.7!! Many flakes have broken of and there is almost nowhere for your feet. Be careful getting up to the first it's a long tumble down the gully.
Not even close to 5.7, and harder than 5.8. One of the more sandbagged routes in the state.
By Phil Lauffen From: Boulder Jul 16, 2008 rating: 5.8
I feel that this has become harder than a .7-- sketchy to the first bolt and then for the follower after clearing the last bolt. My second took a nasty pendulum fall!!
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