I was looking at the rock areas for the Garden of the Gods recently and I realized that there was little to no mention of the bouldering to be found at the Garden. I was recently down there and I spent a little time looking at guidebooks and hiking around the park and seeing what was to be seen for bouldering.
The bouldering in the Garden is mostly long, sustained traverses. The holds are fairly similar to what you would find on a Garden route. They range from slopey pockets to positive pockets, from positive edges to sand-filled crimps. There are four main areas that I went to. I have no idea of any established route names and/or routes for that matter. So if you have any input go ahead and add it, please.
The Snake Pit area is a small collection of three or four boulders that apparently fell off of Kindergarten Rock sometime ago. The rock is fairly coarse sandstone, that is similar to Flagstaff. It may not be quite as solid. The rock here reminded me of coral or something.
Getting There
To get there, park in the South Garden parking lot (just follow the road around until you start heading north again). Out of the lot go north and follow a trail a quarter mile or so. The rocks will be on the left side of the trail. They are located just below New Era. Remember no parking along the road.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Snake Pit Area:
The bottom picture is mongoose block. On the left are some flakes V0, Just right of that are some slopy jugs V0+ or sit start the same at V2. The center of the photo is a V2 on flakes. To the right is a V1 that angles up and left. The arete on the right has a popular dyno called the Nose Lunge V4. The top picture has some good problems with bad landings, bring a pad. The center of the photo goes up seams and edges V3. The arete on the left is a V2 and the right arete is a V1. If you are looking at the top picture, 20ft to the left is another bouldering rock with good landings and short problems. Sue's eliminate starts at the left and climbs up and right to a small dyno V3. Flake up climbs the prominate flake in the center of the rock V0-. and a sit start problem on the right climbs crimps V3.
Just got back from the Garden and the bottom photo is the first real rock bouldering i've done. It was loads of fun right at my level. Next time I pass through I'll stop for the afternoon again.
The Snake Pits are the best place to go bouldering in GOG to get away from the crowds. Late Spring is the best time as the valley doesn't get too humid and the sun doesn't shine directly on them at sunset. Most climbers congregate at the first boulder, which arguably has the best problems and rock. Grades range from V0 to I think V9. There is a wicked V5 that pulls on slopers to gain a pathetic gaston, finishing at the eye level jug. The rock can be sharp in the dark areas, but nothing a good session at Flagstaff won't fix. The boulder to the northwest of the first boulder has an excellent overhanging traverse (more body-tension specific than the Blowouts traverse). Overall a great place for beginners and V-Sprayers alike.
-D
By Patrick J From: Manitou Springs, Co Oct 10, 2008
A bit of history- the Snake Pits hosted the first ever bouldering competition back in the early 1960s. Harvey Carter hosted it, judged it, competed in it, and apparently won (who would have thought?). Check out John Gill's website for more info.
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