Situated right next to Colorado Springs off of US Highway 24 lies a small park aptly named Garden of the Gods. The acreage of the park is rather modest, like Red Rocks, but the sandstone formations are quite stiking and memorable. Several massive rocks are decorated with jagged profiles with colors ranging from white, mild orange and rich reds. Spires of up to two pitch height are scattered behind these larger rocks. The park is highly developed and has cement trails in places. Climbing is almost exclusively trad, though there are many routes with drilled angles that don't require gear other than draws. Rock quality varies from formation to formation, and can be very crumbly. For Front Range denizens who want to get used to soft desert sandstone, this is a great place to experience it. Get used to an audience, as the crowded park has hundreds of visitors on weekends.
Getting There
From the south, from I-25, take a left on US Highway 24 (Exit 141). Drive past 21st Street and then take a right on either Ridge Road or Garden Ave, depending on which lot you want to park at. The visitor center is on 30th Street, which is to the right of the park facing North.
From the north, from I-25, take the Garden of the Gods Rd west to 30th St. Go S on 30th St. to the visitor's center and get your permit.
Rock Considerations
There are regulations specific to climbing at this city-owned park, see the Visitor's Center for your permit & list of rules.
The rock here is a very porous, fragile sandstone; however, the exact qualities of the rock vary from formation to formation. Kindergarten Rock (lighter color) has probably some of the strongest of the weak sandstone here. Beware after any significant rain storms that it can take up to days to dry out. Rock edges here are known to fail without warning.
Regulations
This park is city-owned. Thus, there are specific rules and regulations that must be followed. Each calendar year, you are obliged to fill out a free permit at the visitor center. Bouldering is also regulated here: rock scrambling, defined as climbing on a rock formation more than ten feet above its base without proper equipment (again, defined as UIAA standard rope), is prohibited. Also, bouldering is not permitted on Sentinel Rock, Red & White Twin Spires, Signature Rock, & the S face of North Gateway Rock. Certain formations are closed to climbing including, sadly, climbing atop the Kissing Camels and Balanced Rock. Used of calcim carbonate chalk is prohibited. Chalk substitute that does not discolor the rock may be used. Slings left on the rock must match the color of the rock. Please check the regulations if you are uncertain. Thanks!
Raptor considerations
"Climbing near raptor nesting [sites] is prohibited. Seasonal clusters of [routes] near nesting [sites] will be posted at the trailhead leading to the climb."
Food
There are an assortment of places to eat in the Colorado Springs area which range from fast food to 4 star dining at The Broadmoor. You can find many options heading south along 30th Street then east on Colorado Avenue. Also, located just SE of the Garden of the Gods is the old-fashioned Mason Jar.
Website
There is a new website that is being created for information on this park.
Super classic. One of the best 5.7 climbs in Colorado ascends the narrow North ridge of Montezuma's Tower, offering up good moves on reasonably solid conglomerate sandstone, tremendous exposure and short cruxes. Usually done in two pitches, although it is possible to do it in one pitch with a 60m rope. Keep in mind that you still will need two ropes for the rap off.Begin at the base of the North ridge, climbing unprotected but moderate rock to...[more]
A few additions. If you want to climb in the Garden "legally", you need to stop at the Visitors Center and obtain a free climbing permit. Also, there are many non-chossy, quality routes in the Garden if you know where to look, and one of the state's best 5.7 climbs on Montezuma's Tower.
Garden of the Gods CAN be very chossy, but when it's good, it's great. Sport routes such as Grapefruit Dance (5.12b) are overhanging and gymnastic. Trad lines such as New Era (5.7), Cowboy Boot Crack (5.8), Anaconda (5.10a or 5.11c), and Triple Exposure (5.12c) are solid and clean. Aid lines such as The Inferno and The Zipper are always scary because of the old gear. Even a few quality boulder problems can be found (though not many) such as Master of Puppets (V8) and the Blowouts Traverse (V3). It may not be the world's most classic area, or even Colorado, but anyone who lives in Colorado should get a local to help them sample the good lines there. The place has tons of history. Harvey Carter has been climbing there since the 50's. Anyone who wants to check it out get ahold of me, an email can be found on my site: http://worldzone.net/sports/waygooda/index.shtml. Also, a photo gallery for the Garden can be found at: http://worldzone.net/sports/waygooda/gallery/garden.html
All that I have to say is that I have been climbing in the garden for two years and I agree that there are some of the states most beautiful climbs there, especially Mighty Thor and Montazumas tower, but many times I have had to replace unequalized anchors (the death triangle) with properly equalized slings only to find them replaced with the triangle or cleaned of all webbing shortly after. so to all those thinking of a trip to the garden watch the anchors, bring webbing(try to match the rock color) and rap-rings and enjoy the beauty of one of the gems of Colorado climbing.
The rock at Garden of the Gods is comprised of very soft sandstone. A few years ago one of the most popular routes Pete and Bob's lost a huge chunk of rock because some climbers didnt let the rock dry out after it had rained. The sandstone here is VERY brittle when wet.
Along the lines of the first comments about registering to climb in the garden and trying to use slings the same color of the rock, you are asked not to use white chalk when climbing. The rock in the garden is for the most part a nice red and the white chalk is easily visible and does not wash off easily under roofs and ledges. I was told by the park office that climbing chalk "is not allowed" because it marks up the natural beauty of the rock. When pressed they did say that colored/special chalk (eco chalk or the like) would be ok. However on a personal side note, chalk on the rock in the garden is pretty much not needed because the rock is often sandy and keeps your hands dry by default.
While we're on the subject of the crumbly rock - if you're a moderate level climber, be especially weary of ratings in the garden. Many of the routes are constantly eroding under the unrelenting trampling of not-so-delicate climbers. The lower finger traverse USED to be a .7, but several large jugs broken off later, its anyone's guess. Everyone in town has broken SOMETHING off of Credibility Gap - that 9+ is probably looking more and more 10a-ish all the time. I just talked to someone who said that the large boulder at the base of Montezuma's Tower is now starting to wobble. You get the picture.
What is the best guide to this area? I noticed there are 2 specific "Garden of the Gods" guidebooks, as well as those more general guides listed above.
By Andrew Gram Administrator From: Denver, CO Jul 22, 2002
My favorite guidebook to the Garden is the D'Antonio guide. I also have Soft Touch which has more of the old aid climbs and FA information in it, but the D'Antonio is easier to follow with better route descriptions.
The Garden of the Gods has to be the sickest place I've ever climbed. The routes there are great and offer some of the most daring climbs. Some personal favorites include: Anaconda, Triple Exposure, any thing on the Drug Wall, and my all time favorite Scare Crow. If you feel you can't do a route trust me you probably can't. A lot of routes are very deceptive so watch out and have fun.
I have yet to meet anyone, who did not enjoy a day of climbing at the Garden. It is one of the most unique places to climb that I have ever been to. Every type/style of climbing exists here. From the slab style on the south end of north gateway/ north end of south gateway, to the spire of Montezuma's Tower, to the bolted/mixed routes all over the place, to pure trad lines, and there is even some quality bouldering thrown in. It is simply a unique place and as long as climbers take care of it, it will remain one of the best places in Colorado to climb, IMHO.
To follow up on the previous chalk comment, "red sandstone" colored chalk can be found at Mountain Chalet in downtown Colorado Springs, or from "www.rockchalk.net". Works just as well as the white stuff, slightly more expensive, but completely legal and not nearly as blatant to the eye.In an area like Garden of the Gods, climbers have a very high profile. It is worth it to be sensitive to the regulations of the area, or, worst case, climbing could be banned in the Park (not as far-fetched as it sounds. Tourists outnumber climbers 1000 to 1.).The few regulations are simple: either use "acceptable" chalk or don't use it, and disguise fixed slings.
Does anyone know the name of the rock wall opposite from the hike to the snake pit from the south parking lot? Ive been bouldering there a bunch of times and very few people Ive talked to have heard of it.
By Bosier Parsons From: Colorado Springs, CO Dec 20, 2006
My car was broken into on 12/14/06 while parked at the parallel spaces just North of the South Parking Lot. Thieves looked to be going for a laptop. Just a heads up, probably safer to park at the North Lot, and walk a bit further.
Garden of the Gods
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