Evil snow family guarding the base of Treasure Fal...
Description
Treasure Falls is the classic climb in the area. Don't let the bottom mislead you. The top usually kicks back pretty vertical. Make sure you have enough strength to finish it.
Protection
This climb can eat up your screws. Be careful when topping out, try not to kick through the bubble. The trees to climber's right on top work well for anchors. Please add that two ropes are needed to rap, since this climb is approximately 140'.
Per Jesse Morehouse: There usually is a fixed anchor (tat) around the large pine on climber's left.
When I climbed this in 1995, it was a beautiful pitch. Near the top, there was a fantastic "window" of ice inside which you could see water cascading. We tried to avoid climbing near this window, but when we removed our picks, water started shooting out of the holes. Beware on this climb as there is a large volume of water flowing through the ice. Under certain conditions it's possible to fall through the ice and into the waterfall underneath.
Finally got on Treasure Falls this year. It is steeper and taller than usual. The left side is getting chopped out, yet is still stiff Grade 4. Lots of big dinner plates. The right side is a series of WI5 columns. The top is also thicker than most years. No worries of kicking through. The climb only gets sunhit in the late afternoon.
This is a full 200 foot pitch to the belay, so use two 60m lines to get off. There is a nice WI5 60 foot tall pillar at the top of Treasure Falls if it is in. It is well worth the extra credit.
There usually is a fixed anchor (tat) around the large pine on climber's left. It's handier than digging for anchors on other trees. Definitely a classic. My impression is that it appears foreshortened and easier than it always turns out to be!