This route has access issues. Please read the note available on the Vail Ice page.
This route has access issues. Please read the note available on the Spiral Staircase area page.
R start 1/22/4.
Description
To the L of Spiral Staircase are a series of at least 8-10 ice & mixed lines. This line is the first set of these just L of Spiral Staircase by perhaps 50-60 ft and R of Slabutt by perhaps 90-100 ft. Here lies at least 3 starts and 2 finishes of intriguing combination of lines. There however can be little if any protection available for the finishes.
Now for the name: The 2 guidebooks as of 2004 give contradictory information. In J. Roberts'Colorado Ice, there does not seem to be information regarding this line. In C. Burns' Colorado Ice Climber's Guide,, there is a suggestion that this is called "Unnamed Verglass" or "Spiral Stairs Smears" based upon the photo, but it describes that as brushy, which this is not. J. Roberts' guidebook suggests "Unnamed Verglas" lies further East. Nonetheless, this route, whatever it is called, can be an entertaining TR and a serious lead. Anyone know the real name or FA?
The starts lie 1) in an angling traverse from the L, 2) a thinnish ribbon of ice to a dead tree, or 3) a crack to thin smears on the R. From the midpoint, you can a) go up in a flaring crack on the L or b) move R into a corner with gradually thickening ice. The finish to the anchor lies above yet another dead tree with frozen dirt sticks rising to the anchor tree.
Clarification/correction by anyone who knows on the "real" name is welcome.
Have fun, be safe, enjoy.
Protection
Stubbies, cams, courage or perhaps better to TR.
Toprope Protection
There is a tree at the very edge of the cliff with a bunch of slings around it. Note, however, nearly half of the root system seems exposed. Beware. Consider long slings to backup anchor to larger trees. There have been accidents at Vail with trees at the edge of the cliff.
This is a fun climb while near the Spiral Staircase. The ice was more prevalent than shown in the above picture, for an ascent up the right side. To lead, it takes only stubbies and maybe a cam or two (read:"low angle" thin ice). As for the left side, it's a great flaring crack with perfect tool placements. Anyone know what the pure left route would be rated, M6-? Seemed pumpy but very secure.
As stated above, be aware of the anchor tree. Looks quite precarious.
Spiral Staircase area
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