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Left var M5 12/01. Photo by Brian Rolfson.
Description
This is a smear that goes up to thicker ice. Start up on rock moves in a corner. Move out right onto the verglas. Half way up the ice is thick enough to swing at. There used to be a pin at the top with a sling around a 1 1/2" branch, but the pin fell out in my bare hands. The traverse to the Left of Right exit is slabby rock. This could use a couple bolts for anchors and perhaps a bolt on the traverse to exit or set up the TR?
Protection
A lot of imagination. Per Randy Slavin, a fun lead, beginning in the right-facing rock corner with natural pro (cams, nuts, hex?), a (tied-off) stubby or 2 getting onto the thin smear, then another piece of rock pro to finish.
This is actually a fun lead, beginning in the right-facing rock corner with natural pro (cams, nuts, hex?), a (tied-off) stubby or 2 getting onto the thin smear, then another piece of rock pro to finish. On lead, the top-out is pretty wacky: crank over the rock lip into deep sugar snow and lots of dirt, clawing at alder branches and wondering what the hell you're doing....
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