RP going for the ice on the Fang off of Lucky. Se...
Description
Dang those organizing types. Why couldn't we just leave this area a mess and let climbers figure it all out? Shucks, we're just being helpful 'round these parts.
This is a decidedly popular ice area. It is north-facing, so dress warmly. It is easily visible from the road. While most of the popular areas are listed here, there certainly is more ice that forms up here.
This area holds a great variety of of 1-2 pitch ice and mixed routes. If you get to climb here, you'll likely leave with a smile. This is probably the birthplace for Colorado modern mixed climbing with Jeff Lowe's ascent of Octopussy, although Alex Lowe's influence was strong, too.
Parking is a hassle since the town of Vail outlaws on-the-street parking. So, don't assume anything or you'll be made to pay.
Snow can pile up. It can even avalanche.
Access issues can be problematic. Check things out first.
Occasionally rappel trees fail. So, beware!
On the South side (E->W): Racquet Club, Firehouse, Secret Cicle, East Vail Falls, Hell's Cave, Big Gully ice, Spiral Stairs/Belfry, RD Amphitheatre, Pumphouse, 9th Hole.
On the North Side (E->W): Booth Creek, Goat Beard, Piney Lake Pillar.
Getting There
Located approximately 100 miles W of Denver. Most folks will use I-70 to access this area. The E Vail exit is most useful for most of these climbs. Parking is a hassle. Probably, the locals know the best scoop on parking. It's best to find a legal spot and expect to walk a bit further than you'd like or just buy one of these little shacks and cough up a mil or two.
Odd tidbit for 2007: there seem to be conflicting signs posted near Pumphouse where one sign suggests climbers need to pay to cross the golf course, but other signs do not.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Vail Ice:
This route is a juggy, horizontal, pump fest which traverses out from the belay of 'Octopussy' to the 'Fang' - (climb the 7th Tentacle to reach this belay) The grade is a little easier w/leashes than "leashless", also heel spurs will make the difference. Definitely a route to do....[more]Browse More Classics in CO
By acouncell From: Estes Park, CO Dec 7, 2009 CONDITION REPORT
Lots of ice in as of yesterday. Firehouse and Pumphouse looked good from the road; we were in the Spiral Staircase area. Spiral is a veritable hook-fest and super hacked up. Same with the Pencil above; the Eraser's not quite in but that hasn't stopped people from climbing it. Secret Probation is pretty fat but still a little spicy on lead. Rigid Designator is touching down and has already seen a lot of traffic; Frigid Inseminator (I think) is in as well. Lots of running water despite the cold temps....
I was in Vail climbing March 2-5, and there have been some changes since I was last there on Feb. 26.
The Fang now has a crack at the bottom of the column as well as at the top. There seems to be some melting occuring now on the cone as well.
Secret Probation is conpletely covered by new ice. There is a sheet of ice from Spiral Staircase rightwards.
Abberant Behavior and the curtain in between that and Rigid Designator completely fell down on March 2. Lots of fresh ice chunks all the way down the trail beneath. Best to walk up beneath the Fang.
On both March 3 and 4 the temperature in the Amphitheater reached 50 degrees.... It's been very warm up there and the ice is changing. Climb Smart y'all.
Vail amphitheater most all mixed climbs are in: Amphibian, Fatman & Robin, 7th [Tentacle], Little [Thang] - not in at all but - Pitch [Black], Lucky, [Reptile], [Somnambulist], [Resurrection], [Teriebel] Traverse and the route way left of the Designator "[Dr.] Delicate?" are in and good ([hasn't] come in in a long time). The Belfry (above staircase) all routes including [Pencil] and [Eraser] are climbable and need done. Secret [Probation] also in "thin" as are the routes left of the "[Spiral Staircase]". Lots of water in the area - yehaww! game is on lets climb........
Hi all. Is there another name for Pumphouse falls? The climb near the golf course west of the Designator area. Is it in this database. Looking for manageable WI-3-4 first time lead in the Vail area Dec. 27-Jan 2.
Lost Camera at Pitkin Falls!!! She is an old school Powershot with 3.2 megapixel resolution. Left behind the curtain on Sunday February 25. I'm back in Crested Butte but will return that way soon. Help a brother out. The Falls were great, bullet hard on the left, but a small hole opening up top.
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