One of the early mixed routes that started the modern mixed craze. The first bolt has been moved up a couple of feet to better rock. A stick clip is recommended!! There are two starts, one to the right and one to the left. I feel the left is easier and on better rock. Power up long moves on huge holds until the 5th bolt. Here the climbing gets a little more tecnical and one should take care clipping the 6th bolt(the one after the slight travers right). It sometimes has a long sling on it (not the day my wife pitched and broke her rib) and tames it a bit. Work up and right to a slight rest before clipping the last bolt and pullling onto the ice. A two bolt anchor is found to the right and most people stop here. A second fine pitch leads up from here and need a fair amount of trad gear. It tops out in the trees and one will probably need to leave a sling. I left draws on the last two bolts of the upper pitch so you can lower off if you wish. (Bring bail carabiners in case they have been taken).
What a great route. The crux of the route varies depending on the amount and location of the ice at the roof. 2003/2004 was a dry year and the roof was really hard to get over. 2004/2005 is different, the ice is there but you can't utilize it until you've pulled pretty hard at the roof. Of course, when the ice is fat, the roof really isn't even a roof because you can stem out and not work real hard to finish the route. Just below the roof with your tools in the right-hand corner, there's a good partial knee-bar to be had to assist with getting the hands back before the final moves. Great line, thanks Will.
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