This route has access issues. Please read the note available on the Vail Ice page.
Pumphouse Falls from Frontage Road near the Pumpho...
Description
This is a Vail classic that is normally in when others are not. It is often confused with the 19th Fairway. This climb is in a deeper gully to the East of the 19th Fairway. Parking is at the Golf Course Pumphouse which stands alone between Aspen Lane and the rest of the Golf Course Residents. Cross the telemark trails and go directky up the gully. In deep snow this ascent can take 45 minutes or more.The climb is 60-70 feet and a great place to practice lead. The middle line is closer to WI 4 while the outside lines provide poorer ice, but easier angle. There is a belay station to the left and a backboard even further left. The only hazard might be the deceptive shelf below the middle line which can catch even a moderate lead fall. Be safe.
Protection
This is a fat route with thick ice. The more gradual line to the left tend to be more rotten ice, but even our stubbies held. 6-10 screws can safely lead this line.
Toprope Protection
We've used V-threads to toprope directly off the ice. There are also some trees to the left and maybe 20 feet back from the main lines.
I climbed the pumphouse on Sunday, Jan 30. The ice was good,still a little brittle. Building on the left side. Spiral stairs looked a little kicked out, but still in.
By Lee Jenkins From: Buena Vista, Colorado Dec 30, 2005
Climbed this route on Weds. Lots of snow/postholing on the approach. Probably even more so now... Left side was brittle, middle was fat with some running water. There is a 2 bolt anchor in the rock with slings and rings at the top of the ramp (left of center). One 60M rope just makes the Rappel.
Pumphouse & downhill
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