The Fang WI5-6
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| Type: | Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 130 feet, Grade II |
| Consensus: | WI5-6 [details] |
| FA: | Alex Lowe, 1981 |
| Season: | Dec-Apr |
| Submitted By: | George Bell on Apr 13, 2005 |
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The Fang as of Jan 12, 2002.
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Description This is the coolest looking ice climb in Colorado (in my opinion). It is a 120' free hanging icicle right of the Rigid Designator and used to form only once every 5 years or so until someone started hanging a rope down it. Now it forms more consistently, but it usually doesn't touch down until much later than the Designator, and even then can form poorly and fall down a few times before thickening.
I have seen this climb form as a pencil only 5' in diameter and one year it was thicker than the Designator. Consider carefully the stability of this climb before leading or toproping it. Fortunately it never sees any sun. It is not simple to scramble to the top of the Fang (although it is possible), one way to toprope it is to do so after leading the Designator. Before you throw your rope down, make sure there is nobody leading it!
The bottom is generally heavily cauliflowered and can be tricky. Up higher, it's generally straight forward vertical to overhanging ice. A cakewalk for mixed masters, bloody desperate for the rest of us! Rap/lower off using 2 ropes.
Eds. note, this climb has been known to completely fail with a climber on it. Beware!
Protection Ice screws.
Toprope Protection Good trees on top.
BETA PHOTO: Image by Quang-Tuan Luong...
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Photographer: Joe Leonhard.
The Fang 3/22/03
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Picture was taken of the mixed lines behind the fa...
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On 12/23/03 just a bit necky...
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1/22/4
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Unknown climber, Photo by Chad Elston
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Jonathan fighting up the Fang (2/23/04)
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First time lead on a moderate Fang.
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The climber is unknown... but the wildman lead th...
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Wildman...????
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Fang in March, 2006. Trying to regrow following th...
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BETA PHOTO: Conditions Jan.24.07 ~ probably not this year ):
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BETA PHOTO: The Fang and the Thang 3/4/07
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BETA PHOTO: The Fang seems to be a ways out from touching down...
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BETA PHOTO: This year touchdown..Get on it guys..!
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The Fang on 2/9/08
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cracker the white rapper
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Fisheye view of me leading the back of the Fang.
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The Fang in WI9 condition.
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Cover of Climbing #99...
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Looking up the fang, photo: Bob Horan Collection.
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Bob Horan on early ascent of The Fang, circa 1981.
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Eric climbing the Fang on 2/9/9. The conditions w...
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The Fang as of 1/1/10. Still has a little ways to...
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Craig Luebben in March, 1994.
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The Fang, March 3, 2007.
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Piece of Fang. 1/1/07.
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Fang, solo. mid '90s.
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By Dan Battin
Mar 10, 2004
| The Fang's front is in what I would guess is WI4+. It was a good time. Hey Rob, who is the bad Mo Fo again! |
By Alan Searcy
From: Pine, Colorado
Feb 17, 2005
| Spankin Hard on 2-1, Half cauliflower and the other half insecure hollow column about 3 feet in diameter. The top requires a pull around a small roof that will suck the last bit of circulation from your pumped out arms. Definitely, a full value lead by anyone's criteria. |
By kevin fox
From: parker
Jan 28, 2008
| It is touching, but the whole thing is hollow on the inside. A week maybe two and it'll be prime condition. Was in the amphitheatre on Saturday. |
By john parsons
Mar 17, 2008
| The Fang is in the wildest condition I have ever seen it. It is likely 4+ or 5+ but very technical. Ice florets all the way up to "summit curtain". Yep, there is a curtain of ice hanging down instead of the standard steep pillar. There are several ways to climb it including "chimneying" up and right and pulling a small overhang or going left and pulling a larger more pumpy 5+ curtain.
Go now because it will not last long.
Posted March 15, 2008.
JP |
By Dan McCabe
Jan 27, 2013
| 2nd ascent by Bill Weiss in '82. Leanest conditions that were still climbable with Zero's and Footfangs. Amazing lead. |
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Climbing #99
