The climb faces almost directly south and thus is poorly formed or just "not in" for much of the winter - a cold snap in December or January is often the best bet for not-so-scary conditions but even then be prepared for a hollow topout - more than one person has punctured the tube and paid for it with a very cold shower.
Near the top, the thin ice broke away and there was a 3' by 1' hole in the tube. Getting lowered was not an option since the last good gear I had was at the top of the cone 40' below. Climbing up was scary with the very real potential of falling into the tube. There was no ice up top to top out on so I ripped off my gloves and threw them down to my belayer and rock climbed in the flowing water to get up.
Make sure the ice is in up top when you climb this.
Cornet Falls Area
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