Lower pitches of DNF. The very bottom pitch is cov...
Description
The Direct North Face is a Silverton area classic. It climbs a long line up Peak 12,579. The route ascends a series of ramps that lead to steep ice steps. Typically, there are five steps of ice. Descend the route by walking off to the left after any of the steps. The descent will require some short rappels.
Location
Follow FR 585 for about 4 miles. The Direct North Face is the next route after passing [Cataract Creek]106067379. It should be easy to spot off to the left of the FR 585.
This is usually one of the first climbs to form up in the Ouray/Silverton area. It's good to do this early season so that you can drive to the base, and hopefully avoid avy danger too. It's never been that fat (as in the photo) when I've done it, and that snow chocked gully below the ice has a couple hundred feet of fun WI2-3 to get you warmed up with.
Did this climb with my brother Slade on the 22nd of Nov. 08 and man was it warm. A little wet on the last two pitches (come now heir doctor surely you have no objections to and early morning shower) or something like that...after we got off we went and checked out some things in Silverton and Stairway is lean, Whorehouse Hoses is sweet looking. Gully 1 and 2 are really lean, but people were getting a 3 in the afternoon start on it. Sweet.