BETA PHOTO: View of the Whorehouse Hoses from the parking lot....
Description
The first pitch goes up a beautiful, wide, chandeliered tongue of ice to bolted anchors on the left (60 m). On the left side, the ice can be thin and undermined - better to stay to the right. WI 4-5, depending on the exact line climbed.
A short snow slog goes up to a small bowl (30 m).
The second pitch climbs a low-angle ramp of possibly thin, hollow ice to bolted anchors (up and right). 30 m, WI 3.
A longer snow slog leads up to a second bowl, where the climb forks (60 m). The left fork is easier.
Right fork: the third pitch climbs up more chandeliered ice to bolted anchors on the left. 50 m, WI 4-5.
Left fork: the third pitch climbs up a few short steps. WI 3. We did not climb this fork, so I can't comment on the protection at the top.
Location
The Whorehouse Houses are on the right (east) side of the canyon, up Niagara Gulch. From the usual parking lot in Eureka, the climb is visible across the creek in the back of a deep chimney. Hike up the chimney/canyon to the base of the ice.
Protection
Ice screws. There are bolted anchors at the tops of the three technical pitches.
This is a climb that should not be missed. If you need another reason- it's on Guy Lacelle's list of the Top 100 Ice Climbs In the World! Conditions can vary so Id recommend being a comfortable WI5 climber to do it.
When I climbed it, the right finish had big gaping holes with water running down inside even though it was mid-winter and really cold. The bolt anchor at the top of the right finish is much appreciated as is the one at the top of P1 as belays would otherwise entail dicey tat or a lot of v-threads (equating to a lot of trash in the spring).
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