The Cleft 

FA:  ????? Type:  Trad, Mixed, Snow, Alpine Consensus:  5.8 M4 [details] Length:  5 pitches, 600 feet, Grade III Season:  Winter/Spring Views: 334 page views Submitted By: Jeff F. on Jun 1, 2009 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: View of the route and wall from part way up Dragon...

Description 

This route starts on the north face of the east ridge/buttress of Hallett Peak. Above Emerald Lake, and about 100' east of Hallett Couloir, ascend a steep and narrow couloir for ~200' then turn climber's right up low 5th class terrain towards a cleft in the cliffs above.

When my partner and I climbed this, the rock section out of the couloir was pouring water. Climb the waterfall to the cleft for ~60m (We did it un-roped) and position yourself below the cleft chimney. You should be able to see an old pin halfway up the chimney.

This chimney is the 1st crux. Depending on what time of year you arrive, it could be ice/snow, or all rock. It was all rock at the end of May. Stem the chimney or whatever it takes to get up it. The rock is loose here. Move right out of the chimney and then climb another steeper pitch of snow for ~80m to a small roof/overhang.

Pull the roof and then climb a bit more snow. Move right and belay from another overhang. Circle around it and climb the final steep snow slopes to the blocky summit.

Location 

North face of the east ridge/buttress on Hallett Peak above Emerald Lake. ~100' east of Hallett Couloir. Descend via Hallett Couloir, or you can walk off the back and down to Lake Haiyaha if snow conditions in the descent couloir are too dangerous. Take the Lake Haiyaha trail back to Dream Lake.

Protection 

Standard mixed rack. Cams to BD C4 #2, selection of nuts. We used a 60m rope and had to simul up the steep snow on P3 some.

No anchors, only one old pin on P2.

Photos of The Cleft Slideshow

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Climbing out of the couloir on what we call P2, he...	Erik heading up through low 5th/M-easy ground towa...	BETA PHOTO: Erik gears up below the cleft chimney. The pin is...
Looking down P4 from the belay.	Erik ascending the final snow to the ridge top. Pi...	Jeff kicking steps up initial couloir.
The Cleft route breaks off from the couloir and ta...	Jeff exiting the waterfall section - a tad damp.	Jeff leading the upper couloir (p4 as listed). A s...
P4 belay - the couloir can be seen angling down to...	Jeff climbing up the final snow slope.	Descent route via Hallett Couloir.
Erik smiling and having fun on the route. Just be...	Erik at the belay above the cleft pitch.