Four or five pitches of excellent mixed climbing on thin slabs, steep faces, corners and chimneys. We climbed the route in spring as many guidebooks describe as the best season, however I've run into folks who say its better in the fall.
Pitch 1- Climb up thin ice on a low angle face. Belay at a large flake wrapped with webbing. WI5 M5 190ft
Pitch 2 – Climb easy mixed terrain then a large left facing corner of 85 deg. Ice. Belay in an alcove below a vertical chimney. WI4 M3 160ft
Pitch 3 – Climb a vertical chimney with thin ice on the left and good rock pro on the right. Traverse left under a chalkstone roof at the end of the pitch. WI5 M5 100ft
Pitch 4 – Climb up to and over an ice bulge which tops out onto low angle terrain. WI5 ?ft
Location
From the Glacier Gorge trailhead, hike to Sky Pond, i.e. the same approach as for the Petit Gripon. Due South of Sky Pond is a large buttress. If you're lucky, Vanquished will be there.
Protection
Standard mixed route for a thinly iced climb. Bring plenty of pins (I didn't bring enough) as many of the good cracks were choked with ice.
Having just skied off the divide nearby Vanquished this morning and having spent the last couple of weeks in RMNP above treeline, it seems very unlikely that there is a shred of ice on the Vanquished Wall. Potentially with this warm spell, some new moisture, and a cold front?, things could come into shape up there. Otherwise, it is pretty dry and cold up high, not ideal for ice formation.
For those ice/mixed junkies, I invite you to look at The Inquisition route on this wall also. You may enjoy it, as well as a number of FA options in this area. Git-r-dun.
Loch Vale & uphill
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