This route is located below and (East) in front of the North Face of Hallett Peak. Directly below and left of Hallett Chimney, on the next feature lower down. It ascends a HUGE dihedral under a 15' roof.
Start with WI-3 for 30'-40', then climbs the left wall of the diheadral passing two, short OW sections on their left. the upper section of the dihedral gets thin and a KB will nicely fit a seam on the left wall. Climb to the roof.traverse to the left, under the roof, on a smooth face. Protection is found in small cracks in the roof. the crux is found on the outter corner of the roof, small nuts may protect you with blind placements. A short 15' section of narrow ledges will access a large bench above. A fixed pin and nut on the back wall allow a 60m rap. to the start.
Protection
2-3 ice screws. 3-5 hand sized cams. 3-6 small Aliens or TCUs and good selection of small-to-medium nuts. a few KB will make you feel better, too. I guess that basically says - full alpine rack.
Emailed to me by: Jim Detterline 4-1-08 "According to my notes, I climbed 90' on this route. I only brought a handful of pitons in addition to my ice rack, as I was not expecting to push the route beyond the ice. I felt that the ice climbed was WI 4, as it entailed two vertical sections, one of which was a bit unstable. I ended on a ledge below the big overhang, and placed a two piton rappel anchor. I was belayed by Matt Wilber."
Good job guys! I never heard of anyone climbing this route over the last 7 years. if that's true, it still awaits it 2nd full ascent. On the FA, I took a nice whipper off the traverse while attempting to turn the roof. Yanked a blue TCU and a KB before coming to rest upside down about 25' down, but safe. B-Rad then took over and completed the crux. As you can see, you got WAY MORE ice than we did. Lucky you!
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