~3 pitches of rock/mixed, 1 or 2 pitches of ice, zig-zag up some mixed/snow ramps, bust left to meet up w/ the Big Mac Couloir at the top of the buttress and then aid up the Headwall (A1) or escape to the right (4th class).
Location
This route goes up the right side of the prominent buttress on the east face of McHenry's Peak.
Protection
Mixed alpine rack: (Single set of cams +/-, full set of passive gear, pitons, and ~7 ice screws and lots of long slings maybe?).
The guidebook says to climb up snow bench for a while and traverse right. TOTAL CRAP. Maybe that traverse has been done with no snow, but it looks spicy with much snow cover. Instead climb two enjoyable pitches of 5.8ish rock (hard to judge in boots) through the cliffs at the base of Right Gully. From there one can cruse.
2 Pitches of rock to ice (5.8) 1 pitch of ice (200 feet) mellow solo for the rest (m1?)
Time for spray: Lollygaging, it took 15 hours car to car.
Glacier Gorge
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