BETA PHOTO: A photo of Hallett showing the gully above Emerald...
Description
This is a fun way up Hallett, especially when covered with snow. The first section, the gully just left (south) of Emerald Lake is an enjoyable moderate snow climb or ski descent, and a good, though shorter, alternative to Flattop's famous couloirs on busy or south-facing heat-induced avalanche days.
If you decide to do the entire East Ridge, from the top of the gully head west just below the south-facing cliffs, encountering a few 4th class sections, until you get to the the middle of another snow gully (Chaos Couloir). Head up this couloir (similar climbing as the first one) and, from the top, make your way along the broad, low-angled east ridge toward the summit snowfield. Get out your ice axe again for this final short snow slope which takes you to the relatively snow-free summit.
Scramble northeast toward Tyndall Glacier and either descend that down Tyndall Gorge and back to Emerald Lake, or take the Flattop trail.
Protection
A good solo, but can be protected with pickets and/or a light rock rack.
I did this route on 6/14/09 and found the bottom to be completely melted out. I climbed a snow ramp just to the right of the main gully. Where the ramp ended, the snow in the main gully began. I left the Bear Lake lot at 6am, but later wished I'd hit snooze a bit less that morning. When I reached the top of the gully, which also happens to be the steepest section, the snow was already very soft, almost too soft to ascend. The top of the gully definitely sees sun from first light, and if you're gonna do a later season ascent of this great route, start earlier than I did.
One note on rating... I found the top of the gully to be borderline moderate/steep snow. I would say it's "moderate" if you pick your line carefully and wisely, but "steep" if you head at it directly.
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