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DescriptionThis covers the area surrounding the upper Andrews Creek drainage and The Gash, starting roughly from just beyond the Cathedral Wall to the south and Zowie to the north, all the way west to Andrews Glacier and the basin that makes up The Gash to the south. While there isn't much (if any) ice here, this area is chock full of couloirs, at least 10 alone on the south face of Otis that I've never heard anything about, and several more in the Gash. Getting ThereHead up the trail to The Loch, and about a half mile beyond you'll cross a small log bridge over a creek (Andrews Creek) immediately after which you'll see a sign for Andrews Glacier. This trail doesn't see much traffic during the snowy months, so often times it's difficult to follow (it doesn't get packed down much either, so you usually end up post-holing), but if all else fails, follow the creek. Eventually it curves around to the left and suddenly opens up to reveal the spectacular south face of Otis (including Zowie) and way off to the west, Andrews Glacier. You can't see much of The Gash from here, but it's the basin just left (south) of Andrews Glacier with the dramatic spire of Sharkstooth at its end. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Andrews Creek & The Gash:
Northwest Gully of Sharkstooth Steep Snow Snow, Alpine, 3 pitches
Ol Dawg Chimney M5 Steep Snow PG13 Trad, Mixed, Snow, Alpine, 4 pitches, 700 feet, Grade III
Chiropractic Couloir Mod. Snow Snow, Alpine, 8 pitches
Andrews Tower, North Face 5.3 M5 Steep Snow PG13 Trad, Mixed, Snow, Alpine, 5 pitches, 800 feet, Grade III
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