This entry into the database was listed under alpine rock. To facilitate mixed/ice climbers finding this information, this has been resubmitted under the CO mixed/ice section.
Begin 500' left of prow.(enlarge photo for details)
P1-2 - climb/traverse up & right on steep ramp.(M4). P3-4 - steep snow directly up central buttress, ending on its right side. P5 - acsend ice & cracks just right of center (M4). P6 - ED snow on central rib P7 - 1st crux - M5 in steep shallow bowl. P8-9 - ED snow leading to upper headwall P10-11 - M5-6? crux- (condition dependent) very thin, verglas, runout. Start left of center - move up and right, into a narrow slot - end on summit plateau.
Approach info:
Hike up, like you're headed to the Petit Grepon, then hang a hard left. You can ski up from Sky Pond, if snow conditions are firm, or head west from Sky Pond, up the gully, then climb a narrow chute with a 30' ice bulge then continue onto and across the huge snowfield angling left to gain the same snow bowl below the face. the obvious weekness is a 500' feet left of the direct buttress base area.
Protection
Standard single alpine rock rack. Maybe 2-4 stubby screws, 2 KB.
We know of at least one other party that climbed the direct line through the headwall long before we did. Likely it has been done many times. Great route, likely much better in May than when we did it in April. We had a lot of sugar snow; it would be much more fun (and safer) with firmer snow. —Dougald and Greg.
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