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Field's Chimney 

WI5 M6+

   
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FA: Jack Roberts & Mike Bearzi
Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine
Consensus: WI5 M6+ [details]
Length: 4 pitches, 600 feet, Grade III
Season: fall, winter
Views: 814 page views

Submitted By: Greg Sievers on Oct 24, 2006


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Greg Sievers attempting to lead the second pitch o...


Description 

This chimney system is right of the Diagonal Wall. It forms occasionally.

P1- Climb an obvious pitch of WI-4, past a narrow section and belay on the right at a nut&pin station.
P2 - (standard) Climb directly up a narrow, steep, thin section and over a difficult overhang.(M6).
Variation (left): Move up and left into a parallel chimney, and stick the thin flow in the dihedral (M5+). Belay on the right of an alcove at a 2 pin station.
P3 - (standard) Go straight up thin ice and cracks and belay at the base of a ramp angling up and left (M6+).
P3 - Variation (left) Scramble up above the belay to the left and climb awkward blocks past a pin (M6), then continue up the gully and left. Step right and mount a bulging roof (M6). Continue on easier ground for 30' and build a station. sling a rounded horn and rap the route, or climb the easy ramp to Broadway.
P4 - (standard) Follow the ramp left to Broadway.


Location 

The first gully right of Diagonal Wall and 100' left of Crack of Delight rappels.


Protection 

Full single rock rack plus 4-6 stubby ice screws, some pins.



Add Photo Photos of Field's Chimney
Sievers having more success on the left chimney variation of Pitch 2.

Sievers having more success on the left chimney va...

Rappeling the second pitch of the left chimney variation during heavy spindrift.

Rappeling the second pitch of the left chimney var...


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By brent armstrong
From: Closer to RR than the Strip
Aug 22, 2007

Fun climbing everytime I've been up there.

By Rick Casey
From: Lafayette, CO
Feb 16, 2008

I was at a CMC slideshow recently where Jack Roberts (author of the Colorado Ice guidebook) described this as one of his favorite easy mixed routes, when it's in. Will have to try it sometime....