Loch Vale & uphill

Description 

This is a prominent, lower-altitude peak in the Glacier Gorge/Loch Vale vicinity. Given that the routes on this peak are distinct from the lower routes in character and length, we'll create a separate area for this to include the multi-pitch ice/mixed routes for clarity.

All Mixed Up & its neighbors are approached from the L or Mills Lake or SE side of Thatchtop and are left in the Glacier Gorge area. The Loch Vale Gorge routes near Mixed Feelings are separate and left in the Loch Vale Gorge section. Northwest Face, Deep Freeze, Necrophilia, Vanquished, Womb With a View, The Crypt & their neighbors are approached from the R or Loch Vale or the NW side of Thatchtop. These shall be listed here.

Depending on the snowpack, you may be able to approach these with or without flotation devices.

We could split this into Thatchtop - N side, Powell Peak, Taylor Peak, Loch Vale, & Cathedral Wall...perhaps.

Thatchtop:

Northwest Face, WI3+
Deep Freeze, WI6 M5 R
Necrophilia, WI5 M6
Dry Ice, WI5 M9
Broken Axes, WI5 M5

Powell Peak:

Vanquished, M6 WI5+
Northwest Buttress of Powell, M6
Thatchtop-Powell Icefield
North Gully

Taylor Peak:

Taylor Glacier
Taylor Glacier Buttress
New Sensations
South Face
South Ridge
Quicksilver
Unnamed Route, M5? WI5?
Central Buttress, 5.8 M5 WI5
East Face Right
Far Right Gully
Left Gully

Cathedral Spires:

no info coughed up, yet

Cathedral Wall:

Womb With A View, M6 WI5
Tunnel Vision, M6?

Loch Vale:

The Crypt, WI4
Freezer Burn WI4
Cold Storage, WI4

Getting There 

Go to the Beaver Meadows entrance to RMNP at the W end of US 36. Go through the entrance. Shortly after the entrance, you turn L on to the Bear Lake Rd. Go to the Glacier Gorge parking area (about 1mi shy of Bear Lake). Park. Hike about 3mi in to the ice taking the climber shortcut up the L side of the drainage after the 2nd bridge. Get to the junction of the trail to Mills Lake (L) & Loch Vale (R). Pick your side. Continue to hike.

Link to Cathedral Wall rock 

Link.

The Classics

Featured Route For Loch Vale & uphill

Dry Ice WI5 M9  CO : CO Ice & Mixed : ... : Loch Vale & uphill

Finally got the time to add some routes to this site. This was a line that Topher, Kevin Cooper and I tooks turns winging off of in the winter of 2002 (I believe?). After numerous tries we had fixed protection across the entire traverse allowing Topher to finally get the first ascent. I soon lead the second ascent but I doubt it's seen another since. It still awaits a lead without preplaced gear. There is a picture of Kevin starting the traver...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO