The Hourglass Couloir 

Definitely a great route, likely better and perhaps harder later in the year. (Like when we did it in May.) There's a chockstone on the first technical pitch that felt harder than M4 to me (it might be harder with less snow). Higher (4th pitch?) there was a classic short ice and mixed pitch: a runnel in the back of a chimney, which you exited by hand (tool) traversing across a flake at the top. Easy but fantastic! Don't underestimate the approach: It takes a long time to wallow up to the Solitude Lake bench, and there can be avalanche danger. And bring flotation for the trip back out; one year we walked in on firm snow but literally had to crawl down to Mills Lake in the afternoon heat.

We descended to the Arrowhead-McHenry's saddle, and then down to the north (to Solitude Lake). I don't remember the details, but it wasn't bad.

25MAY08 The 4th pitch, ice pitch, had ice all the way, exiting at the top without a traverse. Passing the chock stones on this climb are a lot of fun. Glad I didn't have a pack on for the 3rd pitch odd double chock stone, I still can't believe I actually put a sling on it, doh!

There is adequate pro but just enough, a deadman came in handy passing the one cornice we encountered. Our rack was a set of Camalots 3 to 0.5, wires, two Aliens, 2 screws, and a deadman. A yellow Camalot came in handy for the ice pitch, We found a fixed wire on the first pitch, crammed in the left corner that came in handy. You will want short ice screws.

In the conditions we had the climb was at least twice as hard as Dreamweaver but not as hard as the crux chock stone pitch on Halletts.

We went to the top and on the descent found cairns but they ended, we then went down about 500 or more feet on a steep snow slope looking for the descent but did not find it, likely it continues down see pic. So we ended up making 3 long raps to the skiers left of the snow slope. Don't go over there. In retrospect it would have been best to rap the route after the ice pitch. The rock above the ice pitch catches a lot of sun.

One of the best mixed climbs!!

This was my intro to Alpine mixed climbing, screaming barfies, and spindrift from above AND below. Absolutely loved it (after bailing at the top of the 3rd due to fear of frostbite in my digits). Way psyched to get some burly gloves and get back out. FA - Harry Kent sometime in the '70s or '80s.