Hike the trail to Emerald Lake and continue along the right side (careful of water running underneath snow/ice). The route is to the left of Dragon's Tail. Both are pretty much the same type of climb. Dragon's Tooth had a pretty nice snow cornice we chopped through. Perfect route for beginners to see mixed climbing and to adjust to using crampons/mountaineering axes and to practice anchors with little to no risk of a serious fall.
Protection
Used picket and mountaineering axes. Used small-medium tri cams on short 3 move rock section.
Toprope Protection
Good beginner route to test skills and practice snow anchors.
Climbed on 5/24/03. The snow was consolidated, but there wasn't a hard freeze the night before. A recent, large slide had destroyed some of the trees directly above Emeral Lake. Higher in the couloir, conditions were better for climbing. A dead, mummified elk blocks the easiest route through the first rock step. We climbed over the step at the far left, which made for an exciting move or two with crampons. Take the right branch right above the rock step for a more challenging finish including a little more rock and a very steep cornice with a little ice on it, but beware of all of the loose rock.
I climbed it April 7, 2007. It was pretty much continuous snow with the crux at the rock step with the elk carcass. We passed through it on the left by thrashing through some very steep snow. I shot a video of our ascent: http://www.leachfam.com/securearea/1movie.php?movieid=30
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