Steve Line leading into the crux of Dreamweaver......
Description
This is a combination of 2 submissions from 2002 (the earlier entry retaining the contributor status):
I can't believe no one put this classic in the database already. This is the obvious, beautiful couloir left of the Flying Buttress on Mt. Meeker. Most years by June the melt/freeze cycle will provide the two short mixed sections the make up the cruxes, and narrowings in the couloir make for some of the most beautiful alpine ice you'll ever climb. Earlier most years its a snow slog, later and you'll hike a lot of scree. Descend toward the Loft, and find the traversing ledge to bypass any steep ice. A must-do alpine route, even with the crowds!
This beautiful couloir starts about 500' below and left of Flying Buttress on a grade 2 snow field. The field eventually steepens and narrows after about 500 or 600 feet, right at the base of Flying Buttress. Winter conditions are great for the first half, but the spring conditions will be the best. No belay will be needed the first half. Rope up when couloir begins. Dry tool most the way up until you hit a view off to your right. If you want to exit with bad weather, now is the time. Rap slings are all over the first half. The second half provides the short crux. When the couloir ends, you will be about 300' from the summit. The easiest thing to do now is to summit and find cairns while hiking west towards Long's Peak. The cairns will lead you just east of the huge avalanche-prone Apron. Switch-back down while following the rock marking until you hit the lower section of the Apron. Here, glissading is doable and fun after the climb.
Protection
A light set of nuts, a couple cams, and a couple screws should be all you need.
From Nate Christiansen: Small/med stoppers with some small-med/hand sized cams. Late spring will require some screws. 11cm should do fine.
I was on Dreamweaver on May the 4th, 2008. It was mostly snow and almost no ice in the narrows. Try to start as early as possible and top out before 11 am. If you come down via Loft, get down before noon to avoid wet sticky snow.
By Kevin Cahill From: Parker, CO Jun 2, 2008 CONDITION REPORT
On 5/31/08 the conditions were very nice. The crux sections all had a fair amount of ice to make it interesting. The snow was firm and consistent with a lot of steps well kicked in. The Loft descent was stable and made for a decent glissade. We each took a single ice axe and 1 tool and protected the top two steps.
Climbed Dreamweaver up to the escape behind the Flying Buttress on April 28. High winds and some some during the 26th, 27th, and 28th have left lots of unconsolidated snow behind. We were postholing to depths of 1 to 2 ft with sections of pure wading. The steeper narrow sections were also unconsolidated snow w/ lots of (loose) rock exposed. Expect falling rock if following another party up this route.
On the descent we got a good look at Dark Star. It looked to fairly full of snow, but appears to be unconsolidated. The gully leading up to Dark Star was unconsolidated snow.
The Right Chimney has no snow in it.
Talked to fellow who climbed Lamb's Slide on Apr 28. He also found unconsolidated snow, but the postholing was not as bad on on Dreamweaver.
Basically, we found winterlike conditions up there. The new snow will require a couple of freeze/thaw cycles to firm up.
There are a couple of small water ice smears coming off the Broadway and there is still water ice in Peacock Falls. We saw no water ice in Dreamweaver or Dark Star. My guess is that the chances of any real water ice forming in any of these routes is very slim. I hope I am wrong.
Climbed Dreamweaver on May 5th but have been procrastinating. We encountered packed snow conditions and were punching in about to our ankles through most of the route. Overall, it was a spectacular route but lacked any true ice. There were a few short sections of rock along the way where you are forced to pull over some short steps.
Went to Long's Peak yesterday (5/18) beautiful day, sun til late afternoon, w/ light winds. We went up Lamb's Slide, w/ the intent for Broadway to Kiener's. Snow was good up Lamb's, good steps in ankle deep consild. At Broadway cut off we saw 2 parties of 2 turning back from the [roadway traverse due to bad snow condit. We went up Lamb's a bit more and found deeper unconsild. Snow, punching through to the gray alpine ice below. (Unconsild. snow was 10+" deep) the reports from other climbers bailing said Broadway was the same way. one last note... we watched BIG slides come off Kiener's (every 10 min...) and shoot over Broadway to Mill's. Pretty much did this the whole time in sun. Cory Fleagle, Boulder Co
DW is going fast. Where the upper couloir should be all ice, its snow with mixed steps, one of which is a tight chimney/chockstone that's not too fun. Rumor is its the worst its been in years.
Climbed it Friday, April 11, 2003. No ice present - all snow which made it harder, but not impossible. It was a fun climb. There was no avalanche danger, most snow was pretty well packed. The gully was a little powdery. This was the first time I climbed in the area and didn't research the descent well and that was a mistake. Do your homework.
Climbed Dreamweaver on Friday. All snow conditions. Did not use crampons, ropes or pro. Three Chimneys of rock were the only real challenges, but very climbable. The weather was very warm up there all of last week through the past weekend meaning conditions will change quickly. I expect to see some alpine ice forming in the next two weeks.
Dreamweaver this past Friday and it was a complete snow climb except for three short rock chimneys. We did not use crampons, ropes or pro and it took about 3.5 hours to summit from our tent in the Meeker Cirque. Upon our hike out Saturday afternoon we noticed that the snow pack was diminishing greatly above treeline. My impression was that avalanche danger is not too bad as long as you are off the steep angles by mid-afternoon. Alpine Ice should start forming if the sunny, dry days persist. I imagine Dark Star was mostly snow as well. The Loft was nice and the rock band was downclimbable without a rope. That may change soon as the snow melts.
Dreamweaver this past Friday and it was a complete snow climb except for three short rock chimneys. We did not use crampons, ropes or pro and it took about 3.5 hours to summit from our tent in the Meeker Cirque. Upon our hike out Saturday afternoon we noticed that the snow pack was diminishing greatly above treeline. My impression was that avalanche danger is not too bad as long as you are off the steep angles by mid-afternoon. Alpine Ice should start forming if the sunny, dry days persist. I imagine Dark Star was mostly snow as well. The Loft was nice and the rock band was downclimbable without a rope. That may change soon as the snow melts.
Did this route on 5/24. Great snow conditions except for a few rock steps - one in the lower part and a couple in the upper section. No rope, no pro - just perfect snow conditions and many thanks to the parties in front of us for the steps! We counted three other parties (or 8 others) ahead of our group of three. We summited around 11:45AM.-
Watch the decent if you come off the Loft via. the normal ledges. The snow was turning to mashed potatoes at that point and made for an "interesting" downclimb. In hindsight, we felt a short rappel would have been a better option to get to a little safer position on the ledge. An earlier start may have helped too. We left the TH at around 4:45AM.
We started fairly early and found hard packed snow most of the way.
There is a small rock step at the beginning of the lower section and a 30 ft rock step before the notch where the Flying Buttress ends. No chimney yet, although a deep hole on the upper step signalled that it will be appearing soon.
The upper section also had two rock steps. At the beginning and at the end of the "ribbon". They were both small.
There was a little ice on the rock steps but nothing to get too excited about .
We found the need to put on our crampons early due to the hard snow conditions but only used one ice axe. We belayed a couple of the steps with rock gear although they proved to be easier than they looked (5.0-5.2?).
We summited by 9am and found the snow was rapidly turning into slush. It was a wet ride down the [Loft]. We saw at least 6 parties on the climb including ours. Some folks we starting up it at 11am!
Climbed it on 6-14. Snow was soft in many places, icy in a few. Put on crampons about 2/3 of the way up. (Was on the route from roughly 6:30 to 10:30.) Found about four small rock steps that were not too hard, but I found a second tool helpful on a couple of them. the main "ledge" area of the loft decent was very wet, loose and snowy. It seemed sketchy to me so we belayed a traverse of maybe 100 feet.
By Julian Smith From: Colorado Springs, CO Jun 15, 2003
Lots of folks on Dreamweaver today. Counted at least 10. Snow was hard enough to need crampons from the bottom of the first snow field. Mostly it is a snow climb with ice on the couple of rock steps. Overall, it is in very good shape for climbing. Good steps are kicked in all the way up. Was on the summit by 8:30 AM. The snow on the Loft was pretty soft, but made for a very good butt slide. Use the ramp on the right side of the Loft to get down. Look for cairns.
I was wondering if anyone knows if this has had a ski descent? Either way, are their any experienced skiers who have climbed this in spring conditions and would be willing to offer their opinion on what this would entail? It sounds like it's a little late this year, but it looks pretty rad.
By Peter Gram Administrator From: Salt Lake City, UT Jul 11, 2003
Dan - I just saw your comment today, so this maybe to late to be of use. By now, this route will defintely be a lot of rock in the lower section and very icy up high. In the end of June, there was already a tricky spot where we had to dry tool up about 15 feet of rock.
This is a great climb. Climbed it on 6/23/03, and conditions were great. Good snow down low, and ice up high. We roped up for almost the whole climb, so it took us a while. Although, we simul-climbed a decent amount above the Flying Buttress. Which, was where I felt the crux was.
Also, I felt this was a great first alpine/ice lead (it was for me). I was able to protect the whole thing with rock gear. I felt pretty secure, most of the way up. It was a little insecure up higher were there was ice, but the pro was good, it's not too steep, and the conditions were great. I took 2 short, technical tools, but I only used 1.
I did that route a few years ago in similar condition at the same time of the year - pure dry tooling and some open hand climbing the whole way, save for a 20 foot section of thin ice in the back of a chimney at one point. The outrage was that the chinmey was too narrow and I couldn't get to the ice! So I ended up dry tooling even that section. It was perhaps more interesting and challenging as a result. The point is - if you go up there expecting it to be a dry tool fest, it can be enjoyable. But if you go expecting a snow/ice climb then, yes, you will be dissappointed. Wait for spring to do Dreamweaver if you don't want to do any rock climbing on it.
By Jason Carter From: Lakewood Dec 11, 2003 rating: 5.4
12/6/03: Lower part of route has good snow for kicking steps and front pointing. There is very little ice anywhere on the route. Crampons and axes are still necessary for grapling with the frozen dirt and snow covered rock. All the difficulties consist of constrictions in the gully and overcoming chockstones of various dimensions and position. All 7 constrictions, I think 4 on the lower section of the route and 3 on the upper section, protect well with stoppers, and are mostly overcome with 2-3 moves up to 5.4 difficulty. Rack up with a full set of stoppers.
After exiting the upper section, continue straight up towards Meeker's summit and then break to the North. If you break North too soon you'll end up on slabs that want to spit you off the hill.
The route is longer than it appears. I'd say a classic due to the magnificent vistas of Meeker, The Flying Buttress and Longs as well as the not difficult, but at times puzzling cruxes.
Did Dreamweaver on 5/8/04. The couloir is all snow and rock, virtually no ice. We came with a light rack and rope, but they never left the packs. I would expect that this may change quickly as the snow seemed to be disappearing before our eyes. But for now the route is in great M2+ conditions.
The descent is also more straightforward than it appears. Head for the apparent weakness between the cliffs below the loft and the cliffs below the summit of Meeker. Keep your eyes peeled for the cairns that guide you to the ledge that traverses the cliffband. This is key to a straightforward descent. Once below the ledge/cliffband, you can walk on snow all the way to the goblin forest tent sites. If you start early, I would recommend avoiding the temptation to carry snowshoes. We left the parking lot at 2:20, started the couloir at 5:30, summited at 8, and were back at the trailhead at noon. All snow was still solid, but starting to get cruddy. If you start later, the snowshoes may be more useful, but why start later?
We climbed Dreamweaver this Saturday. The route had little ice as this was almost a complete snow climb, but still fun. My friend lost his digital camera near the ridge, so if someone finds it please contact me.
By Tim Stich From: Colorado Springs, Colorado Jul 5, 2004
My friend Aaron invited me to climb the route July 5, 2004. We got to the route about an hour after sunrise. The snow was a little soft on the easy slope before the colouir narrows and obligates you to drytool up some rock. It must not be getting cold enough at night to freeze layers deeper than a few inches. In any case, there is very little real ice on the climb currently. Some ice exists atop a few of the stepped runs, while there will be snow at the bottom. The route might be better done with one long mountain axe to give you a self snow belay with the shaft plunged as you climb. Granular snowfall peppered us in the early afternoon, which seems to be this month's weather pattern.
Did the route a about a week [and] a half ago, about 1/3 of the route has melted out. Top sections still had snow & ice. Crampons were [useful], just brought one axe. Great route!
I'd like to climb this within the next 2 weeks. Please post conditions here. I'm wondering if snow/ice has accumulated with this latest batch of weather. Thanks.
Holy Crap!! What an awesome route!! Did it today as my first mountaineering route. Took us 15 hours car to car, which might be slow to some, but it was excellent. The route is covered in snow, sometimes up to knee/thigh height. The snow is good quality and not too avalanche prone yet. Not much ice in, only 1 pitch had some ice, but it was good! Snowed off and on, but didn't accumulate. Descent is tricky, but just look for the 1st of two ledge systems. on the face connecting Meeker and The Loft. This is the one that connects to The Loft. Don't go all the way to the cliffs like we did!
Tim Barton and I had a go at Dreamweaver on Saturday; either we missed the window of ideal conditions or folks have been overly enthusiastic in their reports over the last week or so!
We only saw about 30-40' of ice on the entire route, the rest was more of a snow slog with dry tooling at the steep sections. Avy conditions still seemed stable but the snow was thigh-deep in most of the couloir.
Darkstar and the Notch Couloir appeared to be in about the same shape as Dreamweaver but we didn't get great looks at them.
Climbed Dreamweaver on Wednesday, 8 June 2005. Snow conditions were great. We had some worries about the avalache conditions but it proved to be negligible.Very little rock fall on the route in very high winds. There had been a slide from the Loft but It was very stable when we descended it. What are called the first and third cruxs were solid AI2 ice the second crux was melted and we climbed the rocks to the right. If you plan on protecting the route bring short screws and rock gear. On the descent the cairns were confusing continue to your left and descend the Loft.
I was on Dreamweaver this past Saturday. The upper pitches have ICE, the lower pitches consist of snow. The Loft was unstable. Started hiking at 2:20 am and returned to the parking lot at noon.
Hey AC, If you used a profile, I could have emailed you directly. I was hoping to go check out the high country (maybe Dreamweaver) this weekend since conditions are certainly ripe. You can email me through the site.
I am looking to go do this route in April. Anyone been up there recently can provide a conditions report? Snow, ice, talus? Any comments would be helpful. Thanks!
Ascended DW on a blustery tax day, 15 April 2006, and found it to be a snow climb. Light snow fell most of the morning, and so kicked off some fun slab breaks descending the Loft. Had the whole cirque to myself.
Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirque
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