This is the first, short, full, ice climb just right of Mixed Feelings and Blade Runner. It can be a fun short pitch with a few variations one being a rock start on the lefthand side.
Protection
Screws.
Toprope Protection
Tree at top of route. Can reach it through gully left of climb.
Made my first visit to Loch Vale about two weeks ago (1/26/02) and was not impressed with the conditions. MFTG was about the only route that was really in unless you prefer your mix to be predominantly rock. It was pretty fat, completely protectable for the majority of possible lines but pretty thin to the top left near the tree with TR anchors. The curtain to the left is in fully enough for a fun mixed start.
Took a look at the Loch Ice area on 4/19. The snow had all but buried the ice around to the right of Mixed Emotions. Did not look closely at Mixed Emotions tho'. Ended up TR climbing a pillar (straw) on the ESE corner of the Loch. Parking Lot wall was barely a thin coating on the rocks.
I lead the right side, all the way up to the dead tree for a nice 35m route. If you climb this one, bring a 70m rope if you want to run it all the way to the top. This made for a nice 3- 2+ climb.
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