This is an excellent route when it is in condition. Approach as for Loch Vale ice climbs and continue around to the east face of the Loch Vale ice climbing area. Hike up the snow to a point where the traverse crack is obvious. The route traverses out this crack to the right and then climbs up to the ice curtain on its left. You then move right, onto the ice, and go for the top.
Protection
Cams can be used to protect the traverse. There is a pin that can be clipped before committing to the ice. Ice screws protect the ice above.
Toprope Protection
This is not the best route to toprope because the ice curtain is usually less than 5 inches thick at the bottom and is easily trashed. If you do TR, there is a large tree at the top of the climb.
I haven't done but a handful of mixed routes so don't take my word for it, but I think this is harder than M5 for the conditions when the ice doesn't start until after the angle decreases to less than vertical.
Just as a heads up...As of last month the second pin (# 1 blade) is no longer there! I blew out the placement when I tried to replace it with a # 3...Sorry, but considering that the pin shifted with a slight test tap I would not have wanted to hang on it!!! Definitely a false sense of security at best! Too bad the water isn't flowing like it used to (down to the angle).
In response to Ben's post: the climb that is described here and all the pictures are for "Mixed Emotions" which Gillett calls M6 WI4+. "Mixed Feelings" is actually right near the fork in the trail after you get into the gorge. So, yes, it is harder than M5... but it might also be considered accurate for the grade in other areas, being huge holds really close together.
Re. recently reported bolting of "direct start" to Mixed Emotions and question about FA- I have seen Ryan Vachon lead the route several times with no gear to the traverse ledge and very lean gear through the seem/crack left of the ice (or into the left side of the ice in fat years). This line has been scratched up for years, but would guess it is not often lead....
There is no question that this variation to Mixed Feelings should and will be chopped.
It has been led several times using natural pro (pins and nuts) and so therefore making the bolts unnecessary but by placing the bolts with a motorized drill it allows the park service the excuse to come and ban other routes in the area.
The 3 bolt start is actually pretty good, nice moves although #3 is in a whonky spot. Chopping these bolts is only going to mutilate the rock and frankly I don't see how, now that they are in, these bolts offer any more visual impact than those placed tediously by hand, they are actually rather hard to pick out. Mind you I am not encouraging power-drill use in the Park or other wild areas where they are prohibited, indeed I heard at the time that the blokes who Bosched this thing could nay do it.
This is a good little crag so leave it be, as is...
If the direct start has been lead without bolts then the bolts should be removed.
Retrobolting is Lame! Using power drills in the park is Lame!
If you can't do an established route, then just accept it... don't dumb it down to your level.
By Alan Searcy From: Pine, Colorado Jan 7, 2008 rating: WI5 M6
Spanking and Stellar! Anyone should go lead it and then try to say it's M3, with a straight face. There's a free stubby in the snow under the dick-sicle if you can find it. I could not.
Loch Vale Gorge
RSS Feed
