Chris Sheridan attempting to deal with funky ice f...
Description
Don't let the name fool you. This Redstone classic has three great pitches of varying terrain. The first pitch (crux) climbs a vertical pillar with awkward grooves and ice fins for about 50ft to easier terrain. If for some reason you're not feeling up for the first pitch, it can be skipped using a rising ramp leading in from the left. The second pitch follows thin ice at a more moderate angle up a gully which leads to the right to a sheltered ice cave. The last pitch climbs a beautiful wide curtain.
Location
This route is visible from the road on the west side of the canyon, on the southern side of Redstone. Drive through a residential neighborhood towards the climb. Find a polite place to park, and if possible inquire with locals as to the best way to approach the climb. Many of them are very friendly and some even climb quite well. Keep in mind that you will be walking over private land to approach the climb. Asking permission and being courteous goes a long way.
As someone who lives in the area, I would recommend parking down on the highway and walking up the road to get to the climb. Access around Redstone often involves crossing private land, and we don't need to be pushing our luck with the residents by blocking their private driveways. Be courteous and maintain a low profile if you climb here. Also, this climb gets a lot of sun and can be dangerous. Like Glenwood Falls, it's best climbed on a cold, cloudy day.
When we climbed this route in February 2007, we spoke with the residents who live near the base of the climb and asked them for parking advice. They were friendly and allowed us to park in their driveway. Parking on the highway also works well - it doesn't lengthen the approach much.
Narrows, Redstone, McClure Pass
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