Not much can be said about this area classic that hasn't been said before. One glance and you won't be able to get her out of your mind. You may court some of her friends across the valley, but deep down inside you'll feel guilty because she's the one you want. Listen closely and you'll hear her Siren Song. But as history has taught us so well, beauty comes at a price. Only the wise man will pass safely.
Approach cautiously from the Senator Gulch parking lot, and then only with a reassuring avalanche report. The bowl above is not entirely visible and should be considered loaded in the absence of contradictory evidence. Various descriptions estimate the length of the route to be 600-750 ft, but depending on conditions there may be less than 500 ft of climbable ice.
The ice is more abundant and the climbing more straightforward on this slender line than it appears from across the valley. Conditions vary greatly from year to year and a mixed start on thin ice can be the crux. During a good season, start on easy WI3 ice for 80-100 feet to the first vertical step. As you pull over the bulge and ease over lower angle ice look for two shiny new bolts with bomber chains high to the left. Most will belay here for a 3 pitch climb. To economize, run out P1 250 feet to the base of the narrow second vertical section while your partner simul-climbs. A semi-hanging belay to the right will save a pummeling from falling ice above. This will set up a final 170 foot pitch, topping out at the end of the long snow filled gully visible from the road. Otherwise, P2 will take you past this second vertical step for a screw belay then a shorter WI3+ third pitch to finish. If you don't want to risk your life for a couple hundred feet of snow covered WI 2 ice, call it a day. Two decent pins with several slings and rings are obvious to the right. Three raps are recommended, the second from V-threads. Only one party should climb at a time as there is little protection from falling ice above. Climb wisely, enjoy the music.
Protection
Full set of screws, including some stubbies. Unless the start is dry rock pro not needed. One rap each off chains, pins and V-threads.
Seems more in shape now than the last couple years. A bit of a hook fest. Not as challenging as it appears, but definitely worth waiting for. Barely any exposed rock on the entire route. Took 16s and 19s all the way up.
There are 4 sets of anchor bolts with chains on this climb as of 12/10/06, all easily reachable with 60m ropes. The first anchors are about 50 feet up the gully before the real climbing begins. No need to v-thread on this route anymore, unless the bolts are covered. Be careful not to climb past the chains, like I did at the last set!
Camp Bird Road
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