Not an action shot but another view of the route f...
Description
Classic moderate. Technically much easier than it looks, your back may ache from being bent over on the middle section. Make sure the snow conditions are stable. Drive up (south) on Hwy 550 from Ouray to the Bear Creek bridge. 15 minute descent to the base. East facing. In sun 9a-12p.
P1. 1st pitch (crux) 140 ft can be 3+-5 depending on the line. Easiest on L. Belay to the side perhaps on rock gear.
P2. 2nd pitch is low angle WI2 which keeps you bent over.
P3. Short 3rd pitch can be made to base of last ice curtain. Tree belay.
P4. Last pitch is WI3ish to a tree belay. We rappelled 160ft and then walked off L to base of climb. Nice position.
Protection
Screws, pins or rock gear for the 1st belay if you don't want to be in the line of fire. Screws for the rest.
We climbed Horsetail on Sunday, Feb 17. We soloed up the low angle ramp to a small ledge on the left of the flow. From there, it felt like WI3+ for about 40 feet, then the angle eased off. The ice was dinnerplating some. This start allows you to climb about 185 feet to a nice snow ledge for the first pitch, but your belayer is exposed to falling ice from the first part of the climb. From the snow ledge, we climbed another pitch up low angle ice steps and snow sections to the large snow bench below the final steeper section. The angle was similar to the first pitch, but the ice was plastic and incredible. After 45 or 50 feet of ice and 100 feet of snow, we topped out. We followed a trail down to a tree with slings. One single rope rappel down a gully/chimmney put us at the base of the climb. A great route.
US Highway 550
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