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The Talisman 

WI6 M6

   

FA: P1 T Dickey, P2 unknown
Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice
Consensus: WI5-6 M6 [details]
Length: 3 pitches, Grade IV
Season: Dec. to Apr.
Views: 1,577 page views

Submitted By: Evan Stevens on Jan 1, 2005


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BETA PHOTO: Looking up at the climb


Description 

One of the San Juan multi-pitch classics-just as good if not better than Ames Ice Hose. Approach as for the Skylight area climbs, and keep skiing up the road past the climbing. You will see the big drip on the left. Head up the slope to the base of the climb, being wary of the avalanche danger. Should take about 1.5 hours.

1st pitch is straightfoward ice, anywhere from WI4 to 5 depending on the conditions. You can belay on the left side of the ledge from a small tree.

For pitch 2, move the belay about 30 feet to the right, with some questionable pro. I used a KB and a nut, but it is a huge ledge. The 2nd pitch is the business, linking up ice hummucks in a leftward rising traverse. Bad rock, thin smears and drips, really wild (WI6 M6?), lots of rock gear on this pitch. After the hummocks traverse left to a corner/groove and go straight up for another 30 ft. Some fixed gear and more rock pro for you to throw in. Belay at the ledge, with some funky gear on the left side of the ledge.

The third pitch is an amazing all ice picth. Traverse back right on to the ice and climb the steep stuff (WI 5/5+?) to the top, all screws. At the top, traverse right to a tree belay/rappel.

For the easiest descent, DON'T rap off the first tree, walk right a little more, so you can rap straight down to the next tree. Watch your rope ends, two 60m raps will put you back at your packs. Hope the beta helps, just enough to get you out there.


Protection 

12 screws (10, 13 and 16 cm) 1 set of cams from 0.5" to 3", 1 or 2 LA/KBs, 12 runners (include a few screamers).



Add Photo Photos of The Talisman
The mixed business on pitch 2, amazing line.

The mixed business on pitch 2, amazing line.

The "Super Fat" Talisman winter 2006/07

BETA PHOTO: The "Super Fat" Talisman winter 2006/07

Erik going out and up on P 1-2 of the Talisman  (Fat)

Erik going out and up on P 1-2 of the Talisman (F...

Eric M cruising up p-3 on Talisman 07

Eric M cruising up p-3 on Talisman 07

Pablo finishing the best line in the lower 48.

Pablo finishing the best line in the lower 48.

Ice Fest, 2007...Getting into the business, P2 The Talisman

Ice Fest, 2007...Getting into the business, P2 The...

Ice Fest 2007, Recycling screw holes on the P2 blob traverse... The Talisman

Ice Fest 2007, Recycling screw holes on the P2 blo...

P2, part deux: Mix'd reviews... consensus is: don't blow it!

P2, part deux: Mix'd reviews... consensus is: don'...

Checking the move to the face, P3 The Talisman. Ice Fest, 2007

Checking the move to the face, P3 The Talisman. Ic...

A lot different than the last two years.  Decent condition now, but it won't be up for much longer.  At least it was steep.

A lot different than the last two years. Decent c...

Lean and Mean condition 3-08

BETA PHOTO: Lean and Mean condition 3-08

Thin yet precarious, thinking light thoughts.

Thin yet precarious, thinking light thoughts.

Jack only needs one crampon for this bit.

Jack only needs one crampon for this bit.


Add Comment Comments on The Talisman
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By Marc Beverly
Nov 27, 2006

Definitely the plum of the lower 48 imho. It's FAT this year (2006/07)...go do it!

By Alan Searcy
From: Pine, Colorado
Mar 12, 2008
rating: WI5+ M6 R

Giant ass-whuppin that left me retard happy.

By Rob Griz
Apr 3, 2008
rating: WI5 M6+

No bolts, all balls. One of the finer pure trad mixed lines. A bit lean but stellar at WI5 M6+R.