This is can be a fun mixed route for those seeking to wander into the realm of mixed climbing & clipping bolts while connected to pointy metal appendages. The bolts belong to Seamstress. Or, you can go traditional & fire the vertical pillar with nary a rock crystal to dull your fine tools. It lies just downstream from Tic Tac as the downstream set of 2 bolt lines on a vertical rock buttress between Stonefree (below a large tree) & Sunscream (out on a rocky promentory with a 2 bolt anchor).
There are multiple starts varying from lower angle ice to chandeliered curtains to suit your fancy. Gain a ledge about half height from which you can easily clip the 1st of 5 bolts. A tall person may be able to clip the 2nd bolt from the same ledge. To keep with the mixed genre, stem between rock on the L & the pillar on the R. There can be a few no arms stems. There can be terrific hooks on the ice pillar to spare your guns. Clip 5 bolts & move R onto the pillar on to briefly overhanging terrain. Fire up a bit of ice to the top.
Or, be trad & fire up the pillar to the top.
Or, the R side of the pillar can be ascended with some fun ice chimney stuff at the top.
WI4+ M4+ 100ft on 2/12/4. WI5- on the R on 2/18/6.
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Aug 29, 2004
AC, actually lots of folks lead in the Park. Maybe, it isn't the best idea.... Got on this one thinking it was Tic Tac and realized partway up it wasn't. Dang, getting old sucks. Gordo here got photographed following cuz he belayed me & wanted to help clean the gear. Photos, even if on TR, can help locate folks so they don't do the wrong route. :)
Lower Bridge to Scottish Gullies
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