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Scottish Gullies
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"between Stubby & Oompa Loompa" 
By Gully 
Oompa Loompa 
Stubby 
UK Garage 

Oompa Loompa 

WI4-5

   

FA: unknown
Type: Trad, Ice
Consensus: WI4-5 [details]
Length: 1 pitch
Season: winter
Views: 161 page views

Submitted By: Leo Paik on Feb 14, 2004


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Description 

This is steep curtain that does not always touch down just below the area of the Scottish Gullies downstream from the lower bridge in the Ouray Ice Park. It is in a section of short climbs, perhaps 4 pillars here. Perhaps neglected (in my experience) but nonetheless a pumpy quickie if most of the close-to-the-bridge routes are occupied. If chandeliered as we found it, it is probably a better TR.

Find this by dropping downstream from the Scottish gullies (By Gully, Ach Mon) perhaps another 100ft (part way across a small meadow) to the 3rd to last climb before the 5 fingers area. There is a bit of exposed rock near Stubby with 2 bolts close enough for anchors.

You may find a lower angle bit of ice before this 30 ft curtain. The exposure to sun can leave this climb a bit more fragile than its neighbors. It does not always touch down. If it doesn't, carefully hop on to this curtain and dance to the top.


Protection 

A few screws perhaps


Toprope Protection 

There are 2 bolts above & downstream above Stubby