First pitch - 20 feet of Grade 3 followed by about 150 feet of easy scrambling on snow/ice.
Second/third pitches (depending upon how you do it) - Grade 3-4
Final pitch - Grade 4, awesome pitch!
Protection
4-5 screws useful, especially on the last pitch. two to three pitches, screw belays on safe ledges except for last pitch, for which a tree anchor can be utilized. descent route - walkoff to the climbers left.
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Feb 8, 2002
2/5/02 Dexter Creek Slab - decent. 2 minor steps of ice on the approach. 60m gets you to the base of the 2nd pitch. 55m get you to a decent tree to belay at the top. Sun hit about 1p. Brittle ice in spots makes climbing below other parties hazardous!
2nd pitch is steeper than 3rd pitch. 60m ropes very useful. 1st pitch includes 2 20ft bits of WI2 ice (can be bypassed R). Rappel 60m x 2 to right keeps you out of line of fire. Beware of following other parties. It funnels down to a fairly narrow exit. Sun hit about 1p. Don't drive up the last road branching before the private gate, you'll get stuck.
Despite not having a large bowl above it Dexter can still have unstable snow conditions. On 1/15/07 I watched many small (but large enough) avalanches come loose.
Dexter Creek Slabs
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