Road Less Warren  WI4-5 M5

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Type:  Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 1 pitch, 110 feet Consensus:  WI4-5 M5 [details] FA:  K Gillest & E Lashinsky, 12/2009 New Route:  Yes Season:  Fall or early Winter Submitted By:  Kevin Gillest on Dec 21, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Road Less Warren - Green
The Road - Yellow
Concret...

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Description 

Climbed straight up middle of lower curtain (in your face), traversed right to column, climbed through small mixed roof to easier ground, rock gear at roof, top out was completely dry with good rock gear. (In November there appears to be more variations possible)

Now that anchor is fixed, it's possible to lower into drainage, no downclimb needed.

Location 

This route is located on the left side, above and left of the top out on "The Road" route. Best way to approach would be to climb "The Road" or "Concrete Shoes..." hike towards the saddle/col, look down into 2nd to last drainage before the saddle/col.

Approach: Hike from Echo Lake on the Chicago Lakes trail 5 miles until you reach the first Chicago Lake. Cross the valley/lake and head up to the main rock buttress on Mt. Warren.

Descent: Hike southeast to the saddle/col and descend to the Mt. Evans Road. Take the road back from between mile markers 7 and 8, shortcuts are possible.

Protection 

17cm screws and stubbies, light rock rack if climbed in mixed conditions.

Anchor: 6mm cord with quick link for easy descent fixed 15 feet directly above ice.

Photos of Road Less Warren Slideshow

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BETA PHOTO: Picture of route 11/22/09, not climbed until 12/20...	BETA PHOTO: Picture of Road Less Warren, looking sublimated co...	Eric Lashinsky just getting through the roof, near...
BETA PHOTO: Eric Lashinsky showing mile marker 7 after getting...	Very minimal ice on Oct. 30, 2011.