BETA PHOTO: The Silk Road on 1-20-07. The route taken has bee...
Description
This route climbs the gully on the far right side of the east face of the First Flatiron. In excellent condition, this route would be trivial, however more normal conditions will require some rock climbing, some sketchy climbing on snice, some thin ice and some proper mixed climbing. Figure out how to get off the ground and into the bottom of the gully. Cruise up this with little in the way of protection until you reach a nice big patch of shady snow where the gully widens. A rock belay can be found here. The next pitch may well be the crux. Climb up a right facing corner with some thin ice and to a belay at a tree. Pull past this tree into another snowpatch. From here, we climbed into the corner on the right side of the gully and rock climbed easily to the top. From the top of the gully, one may continue to the top of the 1st Flatiron or just drop over the other side of the ridge and walk back down.
Really an awesome route. The conditions window for it is extremely short, so if you think it might be "in", get up there.
I recall wishing for a 3.5 or 4 (old style) Camalot for the wide layback to the tree belay. Other than that, just your standard Flatirons ice rack. Heh!