BETA PHOTO: 2nd pitch of ice. 100 feet to the tree on the righ...
Description
A good 2 pitch ice climb in the Colorado Springs area. First pitch, I believe is 40 or so feet. Second pitch is close to 110 feet. Top rope off the tree on the right of the 2nd pitch. We used a 70 meter rope and had a few feet to spare. The trail can be found by looking for boot and crampon marks heading downhill. A great place to take beginners to get a feel for steep ice. Better than the hacked out Silver Cascade Slab.
Location
Off of Old Stage in Colorado Springs.
Protection
Takes screws used a second 60m rope to rappel in on.
NOTE
This was on private property.
Three years ago, Rick Gieman, in one of his last efforts before retiring from Colorado Springs Park & Rec Dept., was able to secure an easment for CS Park and Rec. from the Hills, who own Seven Falls, allowing ice climber access to Hully Gully from the Old Stage Road. This easement does not include Ramona Falls, which is still off-limits.
By BrettPierce From: Colorado Springs Feb 28, 2008
This is on PRIVATE PROPERTY. Please remove this route from the database.
By BrettPierce From: Colorado Springs Feb 29, 2008
I stand corrected. The following is from Pete G.
Hi Brett,
I am in complete agreement with you about posting climbs on private property, particularly when they are expressly out of bounds, and where the land owner has had people prosecuted for tresspass.
That being said, it is no longer the case at Hully Gully. Three years ago, Rick Gieman, in one of his last efforts before retiring from Colorado Springs Park & Rec Dept., was able to secure an easment for CS Park and Rec. from the Hills, who own Seven Falls, allowing ice climber access to Hully Gully from the Old Stage Road. This easement does not include Ramona Falls, which is still off-limits. The No Parking signs are relics of the previous closure. If the closure were still in place, the Sheriffs Office would be ticketing the cars that are always parked there, and waiting for the perps to emerge from the forest, just like they used to do.
Again, I agree with you a bout private property - I have scolded several people about posting the Ute Pass bouldering area on this site. Hope this clarifies things for you.
Pete Gallagher Manitou Springs
By Julian Smith From: Colorado Springs, CO Mar 1, 2008 rating: WI4+
So, it looks like this route is going to be OK to post. Is there a consensus then about how to describe it, as in should real directions be shared that would be helpful to a user of this site or should they remain as they are?
I didn't post mileage for that specific reason, but it is not a secret as to where this climb lies. When I was down climbing Hully Gully on Tuesday, there was a cat who rapped in and rope soloed the left side as we were climbing on the right. The route is cool but not to make the trip on a weekly basis to the Springs. It would be One thing if there were multiple lines, but this is not the case. There are access issues at other climbing areas as well. It's funny how climbers can be. If this were on private property, why would the company, "summit guides", I believe, do a show on Comcast where the took some cat in there to climb? As soon as I watched it and know the ice that is and around Colorado Springs, I figured it was Hully Hully. I'm sure if I lived in the Springs and wanted to swing tools during the week, that is where I would go.
By Joshua Blake From: Colorado Springs Mar 3, 2008
As much as it disappoints me to see more traffic there I guess it was going to happen and of course it is public access as Pete said. I personally spent two days trudging through that area after hearing about it and after only getting a "it's along Old Stage Road" for approach notes. Let's keep with that. If people really want to climb the best ice in the area, they can at least put some effort into finding it. It's not that hard if you break out a topo and use some common sense. As an aside, there is high potential here for taking a big chunk of ice in the head when there is more than one party on the ice and with four parties (not uncommon), it becomes down right dangerous. If you show up to a crowd, don't risk others safety with too much pressure just come back later or wait on the side.
Oooops. Heard about HG on SuperTopo and gave "Stich" what, in retrospect, after I thought about it, was a poor approach description. Basically referenced Old Stage Road. In total agreement with the published approach philosophy. Thinking I should get up there Sunday, just for old times' sake and because it's so good for so close to home. Hope I can remember the way. BTW, in keeping with the aforementioned approach philosophy, there is in Castlewood Canyon a more often than not formed up 60' pitch of WI4 or so that is not obvious to find but worth the search that, based on the tracks over the years, has rarely if ever been climbed by anyone other than my bros or myself. You can see a bit of it from one trail if you look in the right place. We always called it "The Turgid Penetrator." Yeah, I know that is much ado about not much. But it is kind of off the beaten path when it comes to ice, and when you stumble around the corner and see it for the first time it's kind of like an adventure, only smaller. Know what I mean?