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Colorado Springs & vicinity

Submitted By: Leo Paik on Oct 25, 2006
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac
Elevation: 6,600 feet
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Description 

Okay, this is going to tickle a few of you out there to say "what the...." This area has been notoriously tight in coughing up information on rock and/or ice. Once, there was even a Colorado Springs website which hosted a bit of information on ice. Well, some of it has been added to the database. Some is already in guidebooks such as Cameron Burns' delightful Colorado Ice Climber's Guide, Colorado Springs Area p. 217-220. So, everyone is secretive about the ice, but as my youngest child is taught in preschool, "let's share."

Within C. Burn's guide are:

Silver Cascades, WI2, 2p.
Green Mountain Falls, WI1-2
Gillette Falls, WI2-5, check out access issues 1st.

There likely is more ice in the Cheyenne Canyon drainage with the right conditions.

Higher up:

Blind Assumption, 300-1000'
Total Abandon, 3p, 400'
Y Couloir, 2000' vertical

North Cheyenne Canyon:

The Phantom, 80'

Buried within our database is even two comments one
then and two about Helen Hunt Falls, and now Saint Mary’s Falls.


Getting There 

Colorado Springs is located on the Front Range, about 70 miles south of Denver. From there, you'll need to look at each of the specific subareas.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Colorado Springs & vicinity:
Hully Gully   WI3+     Ice, 2 pitches   North Cheyenne Canyon
Y Couloir        Alpine, 2000 feet   Pike's Peak : North Face of Pike's Peak
Blind Assumption        Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 400 feet   Pike's Peak : North Face of Pike's Peak
Total Abandon        Trad, Alpine, Grade III   Pike's Peak : North Face of Pike's Peak
Browse More Classics in Colorado Springs & vicinity

Featured Route For Colorado Springs & vicinity
Poking through the first hole on Blind Assumption in excellent conditions, around December, '94(?).  Photo taken by Mike Houston.

Blind Assumption   CO : CO Ice & Mixed : ... : North Face of Pike's Peak
Blind Assumption climbs the icy chimney system on the left side of the Corinthian Column. Overall it is more sustained and harder than its cousin, Total Abandon. For 400 feet, it makes its way up 3 pitches before finally relenting on the summit snowfields.For the approach, see Total Abandon. Once at Total Abandon, keep going across the snowfield to the other side of the Corinthian Column. Turn right and go uphill.Pitch 1 - Begin at two fixed p...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO


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By Joshua Balke
From: Colorado Springs
Jan 29, 2007

Though I didn't have problems when I went to Gillette, I was warned of angry land owners deflating tires. The property accessed across is I believed owned by Colorado Springs water. I would suggest checking with the FS and CO Spgs before going to ensure you have a leg to stand on before going. If anyone can confirm access issues, it would be appreciated.

By Jamie Pierce
Oct 6, 2009

Gillette Falls and its approach reside on private property that belong to Cripple Creek Water District and a landowner that doesn't want folks crossing his land, and it's his right to keep folks off. If conditions allow, find another way to gain access to these falls, but find out what is best prior to the long approach.