Mountain Project: Climbing CO Ice & Mixed

Total Abandon is a stellar route in an awesome setting. It is the gully/chimney system that is located on the right side of the Corinthian Column on Pike's Peak's north face. With deluxe access from the Hero Rock Traverse, what more could you ask for? OK. How about 300 to 1000 feet of mixed climbing?

From 13,000 feet on the troll road (yuck, I hate paying trolls), park at the last major curve before the road heads up to the summit. Cross the road and head east until you can drop off into the void. Traverse south along the Hero Rock Traverse. This will involve mainly dropping elevation at first and then traversing. Allow at least an hour if you are unfamiliar with the traverse.

Locate the chimney system on the right hand side of the Corinthian Column. This is a giant buttress of rock on the Hero Rock Traverse. Work up into the chimney system. The crux is going to be the second or third pitch and involves a steep, thin wall of ice with a mixed move at the top. Continue up the gully to the summit or bail off to the right and descend to your car.

This route is probably in condition most of the year. Watch out for death avalanche potential in the spring and thin conditions in the fall. The gate at the bottom of the mountain is the most problematic issue. Based on current gate opening times, it seems as if early May or late September would be best for an attempt. Remember, you can always walk up from Manitou Springs. Use Rock and Ice #85 for a reference.

This is a stellar route in an awesome setting. Enjoy.

[Eds. This submission had been listed under RMNP/Alpine then non-RMNP/Alpine and now here by request & for better organization.]

Protection

You might need a little bit of everything for this one. A few knife blades and Lost Arrows would be nice. Bring some bigger passive pro as well. Camming units suck in icy cracks. A couple of shorter ice screws (mids and stubbies) will round out the rack nicely.

Photos of Total Abandon

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BETA PHOTO: Scrappy crux of the first pitch in pretty fat fall...	Crux of second pitch.	Phil Wortman leading a very dry pitch one. Photo ...
The upper part of the route can be seen here as we...	Mark Sokol on Total Abandon- No ice? Let's do it a...	Early fall '06.
Slade coming up the first pitch of Total Abandon o...	BETA PHOTO: September 30th, 2009 08:30 and she's in.	BETA PHOTO: Another party on the hero rock traverse, near the ...
Thomas finishing up a hardened-snow covered 1st pi...	2nd pitch crux, sick!!	Finishing up the 1st crux of the second pitch.
Thomas mixing his way through the rubble top-out o...	Approaching Total Abandon. Autumn 2009.

Comments on Total Abandon

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By Bosier Parsons
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Sep 18, 2004

This route does not often come into shape and definitely does not hang around all year. The first section below the steep crux is low-angle rock that often gets covered with a few inches of ice, rendering stubbies pretty much useless, and not offering too much for rock pro. The climbing here is not bad but a little awkward. I have never finished the route. My best attempt ended abruptly when the snow just below the steep section unexpectedly detached from the rock and sent my partner sailing. Pretty scary.

The main reason I'm writing right now -- I was on the Peak today, and Total Abadnon is in! Ice looks great, still thin, but definitely climbable. Hero Traverse is dry. Blind Assumption also looks likes it's in, though much skinnier than when I've climbed it before.

Also, watch for these routes in May, especially if we get a big, late season dump. Have fun!

By Lordsokol
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 23, 2006

Phil Wortman and I climbed this route yesterday. We completed it but without much ICE. I'd say the first pitch had about half of an inch of sketchy ice on it. The second pitch had NO ice on it. Just about a foot or so of snow that had to be cleared to get to the rock below it. This was a sketchy lead. It was crumbly up to about the third pitch when finally we found some ice (just above the overhanging crux...and Thank GOD it was there because it was a struggle to clear that bulge and just when we needed it... ICE!). The ice on the third pitch was several inches thick in spots...thick enough for stubbies. The third pitch ended above another (much easier) overhanging boulder and a snow field to the top. I'd say that because there was little or no ice on most of the route, that it was about M6. With ice, it would have been very enjoyable WI4+. I can't wait til next year when hopefully it will be in completely. Great route!

By Shileikis
From: Dysfunctional Denver, CO
May 11, 2009

Anyone been up here lately? Anybody have any idea what the conditions are like? Anybody want to go climb this?

Total Abandon

WI4+ M6

Description

Protection

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